Twee Cup & Saucer

Why Not? It may not always be time for tea, but it is always time for twee. Contained of course: I will keep my penchant for twee inside this cup. (These crocheted cups also look very well with a shot glass inside! Boozing can be kawaii too.)

Materials:
3 balls No.10 Crochet Cotton as follows:
1 ball MC (ecru)
1 ball CC1 (Light Pink)
1 ball CC2 (Pink)
* This project takes a scant amount of each colour and is very inexpensive to make
1 Metal Crochet Hook, size 1.35mm

Crocheting the Saucer Section

Begin with a Magic Loop and sc 1 and ch1.
30 hdc into loop and sl st to join.
Here is a great offsite guide to this, the most lovely way to start a circular project.
Don't believe in magic? Avoid this technique by chaining 4 and slip stitching to 1st st to form a loop. Work the 30hdc into this ring, starting with a ch2.

Magic Loop construct with half of the preliminary stitches worked.

Pull the thread *not attached to the ball* to tug the first stitch alongside the second stitch, and experience the Magic of this technique. oooooooo!

Ch 5, hdc into sl st *ch 3, skip 2 hdc s, hdc into next st, ch3, hdc in same stitch* [1x1 cluster made]

Your row of 1x1 clusters will look rather loosey-goosey.

Ch 3 and sl st in 2nd stitch of starting chain to join.
Ch 2, hdc in ch 3 space, ch 3, 2hdc in same space.
* ch 3, 2hdc in cluster, ch 3 2hdc in cluster, skip ch 3 space* [2x2 cluster made] sl st in 2nd ch to join, sl st again and leaving nice long tails, change to CC1



Lt pink [CC1]
ch 2, 2hdc into 2x2 cluster, ch 3, 3hdc into same 2x2 cluster, skip ch 3 space, *3hdc into 2x2 cluster, ch 3, 3hdc into same cluster (3x3 cluster made), skip ch 3 space* sl st to 2nd st of starting chain to join, sl st once, with CC1 and again, changing to CC2

A Close-Up of Changing Colours

Trap your ends inside of your chain stitches. Use this technique through out the project for a nice finish.

A Close-up of how bizarre things can look while you 'work over ends'. Always try to use the initial chain stitches of a row as a step in your finishing.

Very Nice!

Pink [CC2]
ch 2, in next, 2dc in 3x3 cluster, space, ch 1, 2dc, hdc, hdc, sc,*in next 3x3 cluster (3hdcs, ch 3 space, 3hdcs) sc, hdc, hdc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch3 space, hdc, hdc, sc* join with sl st to starting chain.

Hide your end to finish off the Saucer Section of the Cup

Saucer Complete

Crocheting the Cup Section

sc into any 3ch space of the 2nd row

Please do work under both bars of the stitch. A Secure Stitch here will give your Cup something to Project evenly from.
Ch15, sc in next 3ch space around row.
Sl st to 1st sc to join.

Does yours look coo-coo like this? Good.

Sl stitch up to 6th chain stitch of next loop.

This Process of Slip Stitching half way up a loop is a technique central to Doilies and Crocheted Meshes. Don't skip it in other patterns because it seams fussy; your joins will never be clean if you do.

ch 2, hdc into next 2 ch sts, *ch1, hdc, skip to last 6 stitches of loop and 1st 6 sts of next loop. hdc into next 3 sts* rep *to*round

This first round of mesh can look strange. Insert the hook under the two top bars of the chain stitches as if the chain loop were your foundation chain.
If counting 6 chains up on the next loop is difficult, try finding the apex of the loop and working one stitch to the right, the apex stitch and the next stitch as the 3 hdcs.

Slip Stitch to join the round, and then slip stitch over 2 stitches. ch 2 and 2hdc into ch 3 space. *ch 1, 3hdc into next ch 3 space* rep*to* round.

Repeat last step for 3 rows of hdc mesh.

Leave a long tail here, please.

Close up of where to start each row of mesh after sl sts.

Lt Pink[CC1]
Work single crochets in each hdc and once in each ch 3 space.
Work one row of single crochet.
Leave long tail.

Pink[CC2]
Work one row of single crochet.

The Handle

Ch 24
Attach to Saucer with single crochet. Place this single crochet in the MC sc of the Cup’s foundation.

Ch 1, single crochet along Handle to top of Cup


Slip Stich to first stitch to the left of the Cup’s last row.
Ch 1, and sc 12, sl st.

Ch 1, turn and sc back up to the top of the Cup

To finish the handle, sl st into the base of the next stitch to the left.

"Oh My Goodness, I We're Almost Done."

Cut Your Ends and Hide Them

Are you unhappy with the floppyness of your Cup? Try Spray Starch.

You are done!

Vintage Needlework Ads #6

The Seventies really wanted you to open a Yarn Store.
Click to read all about it.







Speaking of stores, The Loop's window is changing this Sunday, I think. Stop by and tell me how it's looking.

Vintage Needlework Ads #5

"And how! Sights to be heard this season."
-Columbia-Minerva ad, circa 1973

Cheers for the positive notes and I'm glad you like these ads too. For me the best thing about blogs and blogging is the seemingly endless opportunity to post, file, share, record and stare at images.
I have so very many vintage patterns that I can't share because of copyright (quite rightly). I would still like to post images of them and related bits and bobs. I figure if I make a home for things I would like to find on the internet, other people will enjoy it too. The reason I knit is to make things I can't find elsewhere, so I have decided that my blog should serve the same purpose.

Vintage Needlework Ads #4

"Sunshine days
Minutes to spare
Hours to live
A time to create
Anything"
The Uncommon Seamstress:
We Don't Underestimate Her.
American Thread 1971
Full page ad: link.

Vintage Needlework Ads #3

"Who says you can't machine-wash-and-dry a rug you've made?! Columbia-Minerva says you can and should...to keep it lovely and lively longer...just as long as you've made it of the one-and-only Columbia-Minerva Washable Rug Yarn. It's made of 100% Acrylic and absolutely sensational for other practical projects such as bikinis and bags...slippers and sweaters... and more. Great idea for the way you live today!"

Columbia-Minerva rug yarn ad 1972

This is one to click and enlarge.

Cool and Pretty, Sport Weight Version

Cool and Pretty

Sport Weight Version

sized for 32”(34,36,38,40 & 42)bust
Actual measurement: 34” (36” 38” 40” 42” 44”)
Sleeve seam: 2”

Materials:
Mary Maxim Lanelle Sport Yarn 10 (12-12-12-14-14) ozs.
1 pair each Mary Mazim Knitting Needles Nos. 8 and 10
Crochet hook No.8 (American No.5)
Crochet hook No.10 (American No.3)
9 Buttons.

Tension: 16 sts = 3” in width measured over pattern.
33 rows = 4” in length measured over pattern.

BACK:
Using smaller needles cast on 90 (96/100/106/112/116)sts. Work 10 rows in k1.p1 rib, increasing 1st at end of last row. Change to larger needles and commence pattern:-
1st row: Knit
2nd and every alt row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit 10 (13/15/2/5/7), *k2tog, (k1, yo) twice, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k9*; rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 10 (13/15/2/5/7).
5th row: Knit 9 (12/14/1/4/6), *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k7*; rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 9 (12/14/1/4/6).
7th row: Knit 12 (15/17/4/7/9), *yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k13*;rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 12 (15/17/4/7/9).
9th row: Knit
11th row: Knit 2 (5/7/10/13/15), work as * to* on 3rd row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 2 (5/7/10/13/15).
13th row: Knit 1 (4/6/9/12/14)Work as *to* on 5th row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 1 (4/6/9/12/14).
15th row: Knit 4 (7/9/12/15/17), work as *to* on 7th row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 4 (7/9/12/15/17).
16th row: Purl.
Rep these 16 rows until Back measures about 14”, ending with an 8th or 16th row of pattern.
Shape Armholes: Note: Omit lacy pattern at each end if shaping would cut across motif. Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 (3/3/5/5/5) rows, then every alt row until 71 (75/77/81/85/87) sts remain. Work straight until armholes measure 7” (7.25”/7.5”/7.75”/8”/8.25) measured straight, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Shoudlers: Cast off 2 (3/3/4/5/5)sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 8 rows, cast of remaing 27 (29/31/33/35/37)sts.

LEFT FRONT: Using smaller needles, cast on 60 (63/66/70/73/77)sts. Work 8 rows in k1, p1 rib. Change to larger needles and commence pattern:-
1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit 2 (5/7/10/13/15), work as *to* as 3rd row of pattern for Back, the last rep ending k4 (front edge).
Keeping pattern correct work 7 rows.
11th row: Knit 10 (13/15/2/5/7), work from *to* as 3rd row, the last rep ending k12.
Keeping lacy pattern correct, work straight until Front measures same as Back to armhole, ending at side edge.
Shape Armhole:
Next row: Cast off 4 sts, work to end.
Dec 1st at armhole edge of next 3 (3/3/5/5/5) rows, then every alt row until 35 (37/39/40/42/43)sts remain.
Work straight until armhole measures 5.75” (6”/6”/6.25”/6.25”/6.5”)ending at front edge.
Shape Neck:
Next row: Cast off 8(9/9/10/9/10), work to end.
Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 (3/3/3/5/5)rows, then every alt row until 22 (23/23/24/25/25) sts remain. Work straight until armhole measures same as those of Back ending at side edge.
Shape Shoulder:
Next row: Cast off 2 (3/3/4/5/5), work to end..
Now cast off 5 sts at beg of alt rows until all sts are worked off.

RIGHT FRONT:
Work as Left Front reversing shaping. Place pattern thus:-
3rd row: k4(front edge), work as 3rd row of Back from * to*, the lat repeat ending knit 2 (5/7/10/13/15).

SLEEVES: Using larger needles cast on 59 (61/65/67/69/75). Work 2 rows in st st.
3rd row: Knit 2 (3/5/6/7/2), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last rep ending knit 2 (3/5/6/7/2).
Bringing extra sts into pattern inc 1 st at each end of next and every alt row until there are 69 (71/75/77/79/85)sts.
Work straight until Sleeve measures 2” ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Top:
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 (7/9/9/9/11)rows, then every alt row until 29 sts remain.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 rows.
Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Cast off.

COLLAR: (Starting at neck) Using larger needles cast on 75 (77/79/81/91/95)and work 2 rows in st st.
Next row: Knit 10 (11/12/13/10/12), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last rep ending knit 10 (11/12/13/10/12).
Work 7 more rows in pattern.
Next row: Knit 2 (3/4/5/2/4), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last repeat ending knit 2 (3/4/5/2/4).
Continue in pattern untl Collar measures 2.5” ending with a wrong side row.
Dec 1 st each end of next 3 rows. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast off.

SLEEVE EDGINGS: With right side of work facing work 1 row of slip st along bottom of sleeves, taking 1 st from each st. Break yarn.
2nd row: (With right side facing )Join yarn to first sl st, 4ch* miss 1 sl st, 1dc into next sl st, (working through both loops) 1 ch; rep from * to end, sl st into 3rd of 4ch at beg of row. Turn (There should be an even number of spaces).
3rd row: 1ch, then into first and every alt space work (1sc, 3ch, 1sc), turn at end.
4th row: Work *[1 sc, (1 hdc, 1ch)twice, 1hdc, 1sc] into first arch of 3ch, 1sc into space made in 2nd row between the arches; rep from *to end. Fasten off.

TO MAKE UP:
Press pieces using a warm iron and damp cloth. Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams. Insert sleeves.
Front and collar edgings: Work as sleeve edging taking about 5 sl sts from each inch along side edges of collar and up fronts. On 2nd row there should be an odd number of spaces. Sew collar to neck. Press seams. Sew buttons to left front spacing them evenly and using holes in crocheted edging as buttonholes.
Originnaly published in Mary Maxim Fashion Forecast circa 1967

Cool and Pretty, Fingering Weight Version

Cool and Pretty

Fingering Weight Version

sized for 32”(34,36,38,40 & 42)bust
Actual measurement: 34” (36” 38” 40” 42” 44”)
Sleeve seam: 2”

Materials:
Mary Maxim 4 Ply Super Fingering 8 (9-9-10-11-12)ozs.
1 pair each Mary Mazim Knitting Needles Nos. 10 and 12
Crochet hook No.10 (American No.3)
Crochet hook No.12 (American No.1)
9 Buttons.

Tension: 7 sts and 10 rows=1”square measured over pattern.


BACK:
Using smaller needles cast on 120 (126/132/140/146/154)sts. Work 10 rows in k1.p1 rib, increasing 1st at end of last row. Change to larger needles and commence pattern:-
1st row: Knit
2nd and every alt row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit 9 (12/15/3/6/10), *k2tog, (k1, yo) twice, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k9*; rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 9 (12/15/3/6/10).
5th row: Knit 8 (11/14/2/5/9), *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k7*; rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 8 (11/14/2/5/9).
7th row: Knit 11(14/17/5/8/12), *yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k13*;rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 11 (14/17/5/8/12).
9th row: Knit
11th row: Knit 1(4/7/11/14/2), work as * to* on 3rd row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 1(4/7/11/14/2).
13th row: Knit 0(3/6/10/13/1)Work as *to* on 5th row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 0(3/6/10/13/1).
15th row: Knit 3 (6/9/13/16/4), work as *to* on 7th row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 3 (6/9/13/16/4).
16th row: Purl.
Rep these 16 rows until Back measures about 14”, ending with an 8th or 16th row of pattern.
Shape Armholes: Note: Omit lacy pattern at each end if shaping would cut across motif. Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 (5/7/7/9/9) rows, then ecery alt row until 93 (97/101/105/109/113) sts remain. Work straight until armholes measure 7” (7.25”/7.5”/7.75”/8”/8.25”)measured straight, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Shoudlers: Cast off 4 (5/6/6/7/8)sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast of 5 sts at beg of next 10 rows, cast of remaing 35 (37/39/43/45/47)sts.

LEFT FRONT: Using smaller needles, cast on 60 (63/66/70/73/77)sts. Work 10 rows in k1, p1 rib. Change to larger needles and commence pattern:-
1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit 1(4/7/11/14/2), work as *to* as 3rd row of pattern for Back, the last rep ending k4 (front edge).
Keeping pattern correct work 7 rows.
11th row: Knit 9 (12/15/3/6/10), work from *to* as 3rd row, the last rep ending k12.
Keeping lacy pattern correct, work straight until Front measures same as Back to armhole, ending at side edge.
Shape Armhole:
Next row: Cast off 5sts, work to end.
Dec 1st at armhole edge of next 5 (5/7/7/9/9) rows, then every alt row until 46 (48/50/52/54/56)sts remain.
Work straight until armhole measures 5.75” (6”/6”/6.25”/6.25”/6.5”)ending at front edge.
Shape Neck:
Next row: Cast off 10(11/11/13/12/13), work to end.
Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 5 (5/5/5/7/7)rows, then every alt row until 29 (30/31/31/32/33) sts remain. Work straight until armhole measures same as those of Back ending at side edge.
Shape Shoulder:
Next row: Cast off 4 (5/6/6/7/8), work to end..
Now cast off 5 sts at beg of alt rows until all sts are worked off.

RIGHT FRONT:
Work as Left Front reversing shaping. Place pattern thus:-
3rd row: k4(front edge), work as 3rd row of Back from * to*, the lat repeat ending knit 1(4/7/11/14/2).

SLEEVES: Using larger needles cast on 75 (79/85/91/95/99). Work 2 rows in st st.
3rd row: Knit 2 (4/7/2/4/6), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last rep ending knit 2 (4/7/2/4/6).
Bringin extra sts into pattern inc 1 st at each end of next and every alt row until there are 89 (93/99/105/109/113)sts.
Work straight until Sleeve measures 2: ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Top:
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 9 (9/11/11/11/13)rows, then every alt row until 41 sts remain.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 rows.
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Cast off.

COLLAR: (Starting at neck) Using larger needles cast on 91 (95/107/111/123/127)and work 4 rows in st st.
Next row: Knit 10 (12/10/12/10/12), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last rep ending knit 10 (12/10/12/10/12).
Work 7 more rows in pattern.
Next row: Knit 2 (4/2/4/2/4), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last repeat ending knit 2 (4/2/4/2/4).
Continue in pattern untl Collar measures 2.5” ending with a wrong side row.
Dec 1 st each end of next 3 rows. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast off.

SLEEVE EDGINGS: With right side of work facing work 1 row of slip st along bottom of sleeves, taking 1 st from each st. Break yarn.
2nd row: (With right side facing )Join yarn to first sl st, 4ch* miss 1 sl st, 1dc into next sl st, (working through both loops) 1 ch; rep from * to end, sl st into 3rd of 4ch at beg of row. Turn (There should be an even number of spaces).
3rd row: 1ch, then into first and every alt space work (1sc, 3ch, 1sc), turn at end.
4th row: Work *[1 sc, (1 hdc, 1ch)twice, 1hdc, 1sc] into first arch of 3ch, 1sc into space made in 2nd row between the arches; rep from *to end. Fasten off.

TO MAKE UP:
Press pieces using a warm iron and damp cloth. Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams. Insert sleeves.
Front and collar edgings: Work as sleeve edging taking about 7 sl sts from each inch along side edges of collar and up fronts. On 2nd row there should be an odd number of spaces. Sew collar to neck. Press seams. Sew buttons to left front spacing them evenly and using holes in crocheted edging as buttonholes.
Originally published in Mary Maxim Fashion Forecast circa 1967

Not a Man's Woman, but a Boye's Girl.

Or, Vintage Needlework Ads #2


Boye's Ad and T-shirt offer circa 1970. I would love one of these shirts. Boye's crochet hooks really are my favorites. I used them in high school and spent hours scouring the Goodwill for ways to emulate the "Boye's Girl's" look. I would still like to find her jeans. OK, the whole look and 'do.

Today you can find a "Needlemaster" (or some-such) kit from Boye much like the small rectangular one pictured. I endorse them wholeheartedly, particularly for those crocheters with tight tensions or those who would like to become speedier workers.

I'm a sucker for the great shiny colours they come in. The hook is slidey but not slippery, the crook is gently curved as opposed to notched and the tip is rounded and not at all pokey-though there is an apex for attacking stiff fabric.
A notched hook crook is particularly problematic for beginners; stitches are apt to slip into no mans land and tighten up, locking them in place.
If you find aluminum hooks hard on your hands, I would suggest a rubber pencil sleeve (for hooks that are pencil thickness)

It is hard to talk about Boyes without being misunderstood.

Vintage Needlework Ads #1

The uncommon girl...
Doing my own thing...Creating my own clothes...
That's why I use Dawn Yarns...
They know where I'm at...

The Uncommon Girl: We Don't Underestimate Her.

American Thread 'For Uncommon Ideas'
Ad circa 1971, and one of my favorites.

Full Page Ad: link

Doilies & Their Gauge

For years I've had problems finding the correct gauge for thread crochet projects. I hate the stringy look I get if my hook is too large or my thread too heavy for the pattern. If I make an effort to work tightly, my hand hurts and locks into place (I have fibromyalgia).
I have found two solutions. The first is to work all patterns using almost-European stitch standards. That is, I work a US half-double crochet when the pattern calls for a double. Triples, I work as doubles.
I only recently discovered that I have been working the hdc incorrectly for years (having been taught by a Scottish Granny who didn't really use them)and now I find them very quick and useful.
Of course in patterns with less open areas this small adjustment can have some huge ramifications. Proceed with caution, I guess.

The main revelation I had in the last little bit (I like to have my epiphanies in lumps)I will try to share as clearly as poss.

Potential Gauges for Crochet Cotton and Lace Threads

No.3 (fingering weight) /3.5mm (4ply)

No.5 (pearl cotton)/2mm (2ply)
3"x3"=33dc x 15rows

No.8 (pearl cotton)/1.5mm (2ply)

No.10 (bedspread weight)/1.5mm
3"x3"=36dc x 16rows

No.20 (thread)/1.25mm
3"x3"=40dc x 16rows

No.30 (thread)/1.00mm
3"x3"=45dc x 18rows

Gauge will be as personal a thing as ever, but these hook sizes should provide fairly firm but friendly results. Please feel free to comment and/or disagree with me. I am still learning.