A Quick Note About Comments

Hi there, once and future readers. 
  I wanted to post this to remind you that while this blog is still "active" I am not actively maintaining it.  If you have questions about the patterns housed here (or about anything on this blog) please direct comments to me on www.ravelry.com

Here is the link to the original patterns found on the blog: http://www.ravelry.com/designers/morgan-forrester

Although I no longer offer free patterns, I continue to answer questions about these items.  You can pose a question as a comment on the project page, or send me a (private) message from the first link.

If you have questions about the free vintage patterns that are found on pomoboho.blogspot.com, I am happy to answer these questions, though these patterns may not have a pattern page on ravelry.  The best method is to send me a message directly, through ravelry.com (my ravelry name is pomoboho).  We don't have to be "friends" for you to do this, but friend me if you like!

Ta.

PS It feels like I'm time travelling

PPS This is also a good time to remind you all that The Loop has moved from 1547 Barrington Street, to 1557 Barrington Street.

WWI Red Cross Sleeveless Sweater

RED CROSS TELLS HOW TO KNIT FOR SOLDIERS

WASHINGTON, September 22- [1917]

Here's how to knit a sleeveless sweater for a soldier, according to official Red Cross instructions:

Get two and a half hanks of yarn.
Also one pair of Red Cross needles No. 3.

Cast on 80 stitches.
Knit 2, purl 2 stitches for 4 inches.
Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose.
Knit 28 stitches.
Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches.
Knit plain for 21 inches.
Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches.
Sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes.

Now if you are still interested in going further with the war knitting brigade, go to your local Red Cross chapter and ask for one of the official knitting circulars.

Five hundred thousand of these circulars have been sent to local chapters everywhere by the Red Cross.

Each contains full information on how to knit the wight standardized articles: Sleeveless sweaters, mufflers, helmets, socks, wristlets, wash cloths, bed socks and bottle covers.

Recent cables from Major Murphy, Red Cross commissioner with the American boys in France, emphasized the need for the warm knitted articles for the soldiers who face the hardships of winter in the trenches.

Army officers request that these articles be forwarded to France as soon as possible. The severity of winter on the battlefields and a rising tuberculosis rate to combat the demand, they warn, that several million of these articles reach France before Thanksgiving.

Socks, [unreadable word] knitters are warned that knots ridges or lumps must be avoided, as they blister the feet.

-Berkeley Daily Gazette, September 22, 1917

Note: I have altered the original typesetting for readability.

A Little Modern Help From Morgan:

There was no illustration or schematic in this newspaper article, but basically this is a sweater knitted flat, in one piece. Today, North Americans would call it a vest.

"Get two hanks of yarn" is kind of hilarious, but remember that the Red Cross had depots in most cities providing official yarn to be used with their official patterns.
If you were to chose a modern Double Knitting or Worsted Weight yarn, these are the sizes you could achieve.
At 5 stitches to the inch the sweater would measure 32" at the chest.
At 4.5 stitches to the inch the sweater would measure 35" at the chest.
At 4 stitches to the inch the sweater would measure 40" at the chest.

There is a reason why the Red Cross did not provide gauge or desired sizes.
They had discovered, in wars passed, that there was no point!
They found that one set of instructions and materials could provide many different results, and conveniently, a bevy of sizes!

The sweater is knit in garter stitch with a ribbed waist. It is knit from the front (or back, I suppose) upwards, to a neck created by casting off the centre 24 stitches.
Two shoulders will be worked either side of this cast off, so new yarn will have to be attached to work the first shoulder (the shoulder located at the beginning of the neck cast off row).
Work one shoulder, and once the 7 ridges are knit ('ridges' refers to the effect created by 2 rows of plain knit in garter stitch) you will place those 28 stitches on waste yarn or a holder.
The casting on of 24 stitches replaces the centre 24 stitches cast off, connects the two shoulders, and creates the neck of the sweater.

The remainder of the pattern echos the beginning of the pattern, as you work the 2nd side from the neck down to the waist, ending the project with the second half of the waist ribbing.
I would suggest using a mattress stitch to sew the sides of the sweater together seamlessly, remembering to end the stitching at the desired underarm location (9" from the shoulder if you are sending this to the 1917 Red Cross!)

Let me know how it goes!

Early WWII Patterns from the Glasgow Herald

KNITTING FOR HOSPITALS

WITH APPROVED INSTRUCTIONS

The universal occupation of women in war-time is knitting, and already almost instinctively many women have felt that they wanted to be doing something by way of preperatation of those warmth-giving articles which may mean so much to the comfort of the wounded.

Here then are two patterns, as approved by the British Red Cross Society. Eventually when completed, and some supplies accumulated, they can be sent to any Women's Voluntary Services office, or to any other official address which may appear from time to time in the press appealing for hospital supplies.

Heel-less Bed Sock

Measurement when finished, 22 inches.

Materials required: 5oz, of white 4-ply wool and 4 No.8 bone or vulcanite needles.

Cast on 60 stitches (that is 20 on each of three needles). Knit one round plain.

Then knit 2 purl 2 until a length of 10 inches is worked, then knit all plain for another 10 inches.

Knit one round plain, next round decrease 1 stitch about the centre of each of two needles, and one the beginning and end of third needles; knit next round plain.

Then knit 6, take 2 together; repeat to end of tound.

Knit 6 rounds plain.

Knit 5, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 5 rounds plain.

Knit 4, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 4 rounds plain.

Knit 3, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 3 rounds plain.

Knit 2, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 2 rounds plain.

Knit 1, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 1 round plain.

Next round: Knit every 2 together, then knit 2, slip the first knitted one over the second, continue until last stitch, through which draw the wool, leaving a length of 4 or 5 inches to be neatly fastened off with darning needle.

Heel-less Operation Stocking

Measurement of stocking when finished, 36 inches in length.

Materials required for a pair, 8oz. of white 4-ply vest wool; 4 No. 8 bone needles.

Cast on 68 stitches and knit on two needles, one row plain, and then rib-purl 2, knit 2-for four inches. Put the work on to three needles-24 stitches on two and 20 stitches on the third needle, and knit round and round still in the rib until work measures 34 inches.

Then knit one round plain, next round decrease one stitch about the centre of each of two needles, and the beginning and end of the third needle. Knit the next round plain.

Then:-

Then knit 6, take 2 together; repeat to end of tound.

Knit 6 rounds plain.

Knit 5, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 5 rounds plain.

Knit 4, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 4 rounds plain.

Knit 3, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 3 rounds plain.

Knit 2, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 2 rounds plain.

Knit 1, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 1 round plain.

Next round: Knit every 2 together, then knit 2, slip the first knitted one over the second, continue until last stitch, through which draw the wool, leaving a length of 4 or 5 inches to be neatly fastened off with darning needle.

-The Glasgow Herald September 19. 1939

Hilda Ogden

Who doesn't love Jean Alexander's Hilda Ogden? Even Lord Larry Olivier was a member of her fan club. In fact, he founded the Hilda Ogden Appreciation Society. Her iconic scarf and rollers make me swoon with all the ignorance of post-war youth. Somewhere between Rosie the Riveter and Joan Crawford comes this modern take on a 1940s headscarf, modernized into an easy to wear headband. It is very quick and easy to knit.

The expansive rib is worked in Brioche Stitch, a great yardage extender and a very warm knit.

You may omit the provisional cast on by gathering the cast on edge with the tail when finishing. Do try the provisional cast on though; it's important to 'start as you mean to go on'!

Materials:
1 skein Jill Eaton Minnow Merino yarn (Available at The Loop, Halifax)
6mm Knitting Needles
Large eye Darning Needle or 3.5mm Crochet Hook

Yarn Substitution:

Minnow Merino is an aran weight yarn. It is a soft bouncy one ply. One 50g skein contains 70 metres. This project takes less than one skein. A heavy worsted weight yarn may be substituted.

Pattern:

With 6mm needle work
Provisional Crochet cast on with slippery, contrasting, dk or lighter weight scrap yarn.
Cast on 14 stitches.
Note: the original headband, shown in photos was worked with a cast on of 12 stitches. Over time it's width didn't hold up. A cast on of 14 provides a more utilitarian headband for Northern climbs and oceanside cities like mine.

Knit one row with main yarn leaving a 8" tail .
With Main Yarn, begin Brioche Stitch.

Brioche Stitch:
Row 1 (Foundation Row): *yo, sl1pw, k1* Repeat from *to* to the end of the row.
Row 2: *yo, sl1pw, k2tog* Rep *to* to the end of the row.
Repeat Row 2 for pattern.

Continue Brioche Stitch until headband measures 19" from cast on, or until the headband fits around head, slightly stretched.
Final Row: *K1, P1, drop yarn over of previous row* Repeat from *to* to the end of the row.
Leave stitches on needle and cut yarn leaving 8" tail

Rip out provisional cast on

Note: If you have substituted a dissimilar yarn, or a an acrylic yarn, the stitches may not remain pert and ready for pickup once exposed (as in the photo below). If you have floppy stitches prone to unraveling, you may choose to rip out the provisional cast on 'as you go' or to catch up the live, exposed stitches on the needle.

Thread cast on tail through cast on stitches
Thread cast on tail through cast off stitches and pull fairly taut
Thread cast on tail back through cast on stitches, keeping taut.

Thread cast off tail through cast on stitches and cast off stitches, keeping taut.

Weave cast on tail through a few of the cast off stitches and then hide end in the ribbing.
Weave cast off tail through a few of the cast on stitches and then hide end in the ribbing.
Admire.
Blocking is optional but may help to exaggerate the drawn-in effect

Pinwheel Pillow

This classic crochet project is very pomo. It's also totally The Loop. Our store in Downtown Halifax, Nova Scotia sees my business partners and I, in turn, perched on quite a hard little bar chair for most of the day. It seemed silly not to try and create our own pillow, and I have always wanted to stitch one of these nostalgic pinwheels. I was surprised that I could not find a pattern, even amongst my vintage books and pamphlets, so I reverse engineered a pattern from a 1970s pinwheel pillow I had in the house. I didn't much care for what I ended up with. This new pattern is modernized with simplified shaping. It is also streamlined by omitting one feature; most of these cushions, in decades passed, were worked with a hard circular centre covering the join, much like the centre of a flower. With this new pattern it is no longer necessary to cover the centre join. I think it looks much more modern this way. It's comfier too. I have included instructions for a centre though, in case you're feeling nostalgic.
There are also optional finishing instructions for 'couching' the pillow.

This pattern was designed for The Loop and directions can be found on their Free Pattern Page, as a pdf file. Post your projects on Ravelry and see other crocheters' results.

This is the Colour Sequence I finally set upon for the store's pillow. I used my good friend Cascade 220 wool. The colours are inspired by The Loop. If you would like to use your own sequence, I suggest trying The Random Stripe Generator. Of course, you could just dive in, changing colours when you feel inspired to do so. Don't forget that you can change the number of colours used to amazing effect, and that this project is a great stash buster; just change yarns when you run out of each colour.

Biscuits & Jam's Random Stripe Generator can be found here. I use it all the time. I find it difficult to come up with colourways and sequences that look random. Mine always look laboured. What I really like about the online stripe generator is that it not only shuffles colours, it allows you to program in a range of rows over which the colours are spread. I asked for a sequence for 6 colours with rows ranging from 1 to 4 rows. The pillow could be worked with as little as 2 colours to amazing effects. Of course a hard candy inspired pinwheel would be striking as well.
Questions or Comments? PM me on Ravelry, or post a comment here (you don't need a login to do so). If you are in the Halifax area and want to try this, or any of The Loop or Pomoboho patterns drop by the store. Sundays are always good.

Sugar Plum Thrums

Or, "Toe-Up Toe Socks for Toe Shoes"

Pointe Shoes hurt. There are no two ways about it. When I danced I padded my shoes with fluff and soft found objects. I wrapped my toes and wore Toe Socks. Toe Socks were the cut off heads of old socks who had lost their mates.

My preferred padding Before & After

Sugar Plum Thrums are the best of two worlds. They fit snuggly into the shoe and keep the padding from traveling down to the toe. The majority of the padding is placed over the knuckles. There is none at the back of the foot.
These Toe Socks are so comfy cozy you may not want to take them off. Well, maybe just to admire them.

The fleece padding makes the sock take the shape of a pointed foot. So cute!

This pattern follows the formula for two knitting mainstays; Toe-Up Socks and Thrummed Mitts. The instructions are written to appeal to dancers and Mums of dancers who may not be used to knitting these items.

Parents note: I know what I'm talking about. I studied ballet for many years at both R.A.D. and Cecchetti credited schools. My feet would have been flat but for my early start in dance and as a result pointe work was a bit more difficult for me. These Toe Socks would have been a boon!

Materials:
Sock or Fingering Weight Yarn -approx. 100m
-Lucy Neatby's "Celestial Merino Dream" Superwash merino shown.
2.5mm double pointed needles (DPNs) set of 5.
Two Handfuls of Fleece. The type is not important, but if you have a choice, go for a sheep breed with a long staple (long hairs).

Make Thrums ahead of time. Twony for scale.

Interweave has a good guide to making thrums. Refer to photos in this pattern for size. I advise making a whole bunch of thrums in one go. It is annoying to get into the swing of your knitting and then have to pause to make a thrum.
Interweave also has a good tutorial for knitting the thrums into your work.

The instructions for rows with thrums are written as follows:
(example)
4. (row number)
K1, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K1 (instructions for stitches on dpn #1)
K1, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K1 (instructions for stitches on dpn #2)
Knit (instructions for stitches on dpn #3; knit every stitch)
Knit (instructions for stitches on dpn #4; knit every stitch)

Inc: Knit into the stitch below, then knit the stitch. Knitpicks has a tutorial on this increase here.

Pattern:
Cast on 8 stitches over two DPNs using the Figure 8 method (easier) or Judy Becker's Magic Cast On (nicer:link).
Knit 2 rows on these two dpns.

Photo shows simple figure 8 cast on

1. Divide as follows:
With a new dpn, inc, K3 (1st dpn has 5 stitches)
With a new dpn, K3, inc (2nd dpn has 5 stitches)
With a new dpn, inc, K3 (3rd dpn has 5 stitches)
With a new dpn, K3, inc (4th dpn has 5 sitches)
20 stitches total, over 4 dpns.

2.
K2, Thrum, K2
Thrum, K2, Thrum, K1
Knit
Knit

3.
Inc, knit to end
Knit to last stitch, inc
Inc, knit to end
Knit to last stich, inc
(6 sts on each dpn)

The Thrums count as stitches. The next row will be an increase row.

4.
K1, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K1
K1, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K1
Knit
Knit

5. Work as for row 3 (7 sts on each dpn)

6.
K3, Thrum, K2, Thrum
K2, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K1
Knit
Knit

7. Work as for row 3 (8 sts on each dpn)

8. Knit each stitch in round.

9. Work as for row 3 (9 sts on each dpn)

10.
K3, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K2
Thrum, K2, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K2
Knit
Knit

11. Work as for row 3 (10 sts on each dpn)

12. Knit each stitch in round.

13. Work as for row 3 (11 sts on each dpn)

14.
K3, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K1
K1, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K3
Knit
Knit

Knit into the thrums as if they were normal stitches. Give the fleece a tug after you knit into the thrumed stitch.

15. Work as for row 3 (12 sts on each dpn)

16. Knit each stitch in round.

17. Work as for row 3 (13 sts on each dpn)

18.
Thrum, K2, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K2, Thrum
K2, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K2, Thrum, K4
Knit
Knit

Here ends the thrumming section.
Note that there are no thrums on the back side.

19. Knit each stitch in round.

20-22
K2, P2 rib
*You may choose to slip the last stitch of the 1st dpn to the 2nd dpn and the 1st stitch of the 4th dpn to the 3rd dpn to make the ribbing easier to manage.

Cast off in rib pattern.
Turn inside out. Weave in ends and give all thrums a sharp tug downwards.
Now Bourrée.

Max of the Wild Rumpus

Max, from Maurice Sendak's beloved Where the Wild Things Are is an archetypal rule-breaker. His circular journey is a microcosm of tantrum and resolution typical of little boys his age, but the way he tackles his frustration is quite mature. Max experiments with adulthood and leadership among the wild things of his own making, at once setting the rules and then trying his hand at breaking them. That Max channels his anger into a fantasy where the entire world is on his terms as he luxuriates and rumpuses, but also draws pragmatic conclusions shows a maturity I for one still aspire to.
He craves authority but rebels against it, choosing in the end to return to parental authority. And he does it all wearing a wolf suit!
This duality makes the character a perfect fit for an Adult Toy.
What makes this Amigurumi pattern adult? It's tiny size and loving detail, as well as its spiky claws. This isn't one to give the kids, although a sized up version, using worsted weight would make a very cuddly friend. Amigurumi Max comes in his famous pj's, a removable crown and wired royal scepter. If you embark on this project, I recommend that you dig out your copy of Where The Wild Things Are to refer to, and that you keep your desired shape and look in mind at all times.
Will your Max go to see the Movie on the 16th?
Add him to your Ravelry queue now!
PATTERN:

Materials:

1.9mm hook (used for almost everything)
3.5mm hook (crown)
5.5mm hook (tail)
Lucy Neatby's Celestial Merino Dream (Face)
Paton's Kroy (Body)
Paton's Grace (Crown Brim)
Paton's Brilliance (Crown)
Cascade 220 (Hair)
DMC Embroidery floss in
Grey
Yellow
Pads colour
Fibrefill
Fishing Line
Wire for Claws
Wire Cutters
Seed Beads
Pins
Long Sewing/Embroidery Needles

Mise en Place.

Abbreviations & Terms:
st= stitch
ch= chain stitch
sc= single crochet
sc 2= 1 single crochet in each of the next two stitches (2 is used as an example)
dc= double crochet
sl st= slip stitch
inc= work 2 single crochets into one stitch
dec= 2sctog

Magic Loop: technique link
Hairpin Lace Hair: tutorial to follow here at http://pomoboho.blogspot.com

Note:
All sc rounds are worked continuously unless written otherwise.
Stuffing is tightly packed.

Pattern:

Head:
With Fleshy colour,
Magic loop 6
inc in each stitch
*inc, 1 sc*
*inc, 2sc*
sc in each stitch
work 6 more rows plain
*dec, 2sc*
Stuff head
*dec, 2sc*
Weave tail through to pull closed, and finish.
This finish will be hidden.

Sculpt Max's features (and big nose) by inserting a threaded needle either side of his nose and pulling very tightly. Take a small stitch pushing the needle to the back of the head. Keeping stitch taut, come back out the base of his nose and aim diagonally tying off at the back of Max's head.

Sculpting Max's Nose

Pinch his nose here.

Hood & Neck:
With Body Colour,
Magic Loop 6
inc in each stitch
*inc, 1 sc*
*inc, 2 sc*
*inc, 3 sc*
sc in each stitch
*inc, 4 sc*
ch 9, skip 9 sts, sc in each stitch to end
sc in each sc and each ch st, ch 1, turn
1sc in each sc to 3sts before neck, ch 1, turn
Continue working rounds in sc, working 3sts less at the end of each row until 9 stitches remain at the top of the hood.
Slip stitch to neck, ch 1, turn
Slip stitch to neck.

This is the back of the hood, with some of the torso worked.

Torso:
Working down from neck opening, sc in each stitch around.
Work til body measures 3.5" from neck opening.
*dec, 2 sc*
*dec, 2 sc*, finish
Thread tail back and forth through opening and pull tight to close.
Finish off.


Ears (Make Two):
ch3
*sc to last stitch, inc in last st, ch 1 turn*
Repeat twice
sc in each st, ch 1, turn
Repeat
Make 2

You could wire Max's ears if you like.

Arms (Make Two):
Magic Loop 6
inc in each st
1 sc in each st
sc3tog, 1 sc in each st to end
1 sc in each st
continue working sc in continuous rounds until arm measures 1.5"
Using the magic loop's tail, pull through the centre of the paw and back down again, making the paw flat. Weave in end.
Stuff arm, keeping paw floppy.

Upper Paw Pads (Make Two):
ch 3
Work 8 sc into 2nd chain from hook
Finish and weave in ends.

Pads are optional, but look really great!


Feet & Legs (Make Two):
With Body Colour,
Magic Loop 5
inc in each st
*inc, 1 sc* rep to end
16 sc, ch 1, turn
5 sc, ch 1, turn
repeat 3 times

The middle row of this rectangular flap will actually form toes when the flap is folded over.

4 sc, sc3tog, 3 sc, 2sctog (one st from toe flap, one st from leg)

1 sc in each st
Repeat working 1 sc in each stitch in continuous rounds until leg measures 2"

The finished foot.

Lower Paw Pads (Make Two):
With Embroidery Floss,
Ch 3
8 sc in 2nd st from hook
sl st closed
4 sc, ch 1 turn
Repeat last row 2 or 3 times, finish.


Tail:
With Novelty Tail Yarn,
ch 3 with 5.5mm hook
sc 2 in 2nd st from hook
ch1, sc, inc in last st
ch 3, dc in 1st st, skip 1 st, dc
ch 3, dc 2
ch1, dec, ch 1, finish
These instructions are not set in stone; the novelty yarn is very forgiving, and I feel confident in your ability to make up a pattern for a tail that suits your yarn choice!

Have fun with the tail.

Crown:
With Gold Yarn,
ch10 with 3.5mm hook
*slip 5 stitches, sc 4, ch 1, turn ch 4, ch 1, turn ch 4, ch 1, turn ch 4, ch 6, turn* Repeat *to* (4 row repeat) 7 times for 7 points. Slip stitch to 1st row to join.
With brown yarn, working down, sc in each end and side of gold stitches.
Slip stitch to join. Finish.

The crown may seem big, but this is so that Max can go with or without.

Scepter:

With Yellow Embroidery Floss,
Magic loop 8
inc in each st
sc in each st
dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec
Change to grey in the last dec, and stuff with back of hook.
1 sc, dec, 1 sc
ch 10, or enough to reach around yellow.

Small but vital.

sl st to join to base

sl st 2, or 25degrees.

The crossed bars sit on top of the yellow globe.

Ch 10, sl st to base, dec, sc, dec
Ch 15, sc in 2nd st from hook.sc in each st back to base, working over a length of wire.
Use the last stitch to close any gaps at the base.
Finish, and trim wire.

Work over the Wire and crochet shut.

Finishing:

Use your copy of Where The Wild Things Are as reference, and keep the shape you want to create in your mind at all times.

With Sewing Thread sew ears in place.
Stuff torso from opening in hood down.
Embroider Max's Face on with Embroidery floss. I used a dark gray.
Make hair for Max from brown worsted weight yarn. A tutorial will be at this blog shortly.

Use the book as a guide to embroider Max's face.

Sew Hair to Max's head and place head inside of hood.
Take a few stitches from the back to secure.
Cut 6 long lengths of fishing wire to be Max's whiskers. Tie knots at one end of each length and draw through the sides of Max's suit. These should stay in place by themselves.
Attach 4 little buttons or beads to the front of Max's torso. These should be evenly spaced, but favoring the bottom rather than his neck.

Apologize to Max as you do this; he is looking like a person now.

With the embroidery floss you used for the paw pads, cut a length for sewing. If you are using a 6 ply like DMC, split to a single strand. Sew the pads to Max's paws, avoiding the toes.

Pin the limbs in place before stitching. The placement of Max's arms and legs really say a lot about him.

With a long needle (you may choose a needle designed for doll making) strand the yarn you used for Max's suit. Tie a biggish knot.
All limbs should be stuffed, not to heavily at the paws, and fairly sparsly at the tops, particularly the tops of Max's legs.
Start your stitch at the top of Max's left arm and stitch straight through him and through the right arm. Tie off firmly. This will make Max's arms pose able.
Repeat the process for the legs, taking into account the pose you want Max to be best at; sitting or standing/walking.
Attach Max's tail loosely, so that it can flop about a bit.

Max's tail could be sleek, fuzzy, or hairy.

Now cut lengths of wire for claws. You could also use beads if your toy will be around kids, or skip the claws altogether.
Stick wire through paws between stitches and bend in half.

Go back over nails with a wire cutter and give Max an even ManiPedi.

I think you are done now! Go start a Wild Rumpus!!!

Some of Max's Adventures.....