Sunday, November 25, 2007

Afternoon Jumper, Vintage Lady's Sweater


Black and white in knitting and crochet -fashion’s leading alliance:
This smart little jumper will distinguish itself anywhere, but is at its best worn with a black tailored suit. Instructions are for 34 in. bust.

-Modern Knitting Illustrated 1945

5 2-oz spools black thread No. 20.
2 balls white crochet cotton No. 40.
2 No. 10 and 2 No. 12 knitting needles.
A No. 6 crochet hook.
3 small white buttons.

Length, 18 ins.
Bust size, 34 ins.
Sleeve seam, 4.5 ins.

With No. 12 needles about 11 sts. to 1 in.; with No. 10 needles about 10 sts. to 1 inch; both measured over patt. in double thread.

N.B.-Work with black thread used double throughout.

The jumper is knitted throughout with double thread in order to give it a neat, firm texture; the crocheted rosettes are inset into the jumper to form the smart and unusual yoke. The sleeves have a tiny crocheted border.

The Front and Back Alike.-
With No. 12 needles and double black thread cast on 154 sts.
Work in patt.:-
1st row-*K1, w.fd, sl 1 pw (edit: slip one purl wise), w. bk.; rep. from * to end.
2nd row-*p1, w.bk, sl 1pw, w.fd; rep. from * to end.
These 2 rows form patt. Continue in patt. until work measures 3 ins., ending row on wrong side, i.e. 2nd patt. row.
Change to No. 10 needles and continue in patt. inc. 1 st bot ends of every 12th row until there are 174 sts. Continue straight until work measures 12 ins. ending row on wrong side.

Shape Armholes thus;
Continue in patt., cast off 6 st beg. of next 2 rows.
Dec. 1 st both ends of every row unti 142 sts. remain.
Work 4 rows straight in patt.
Cast off.
Work a second piece in same way.

The Sleeves. -
With No. 12 needles and double black thread cast on 116 sts.
Work in pattern for 1 in, inc. 1 st both ends of next row, then continue in pattern until work measres 1.5 ins.
Change to No. 10 needles and continue in patt, inc. 1 st both ends of 7th row and every following 12th row until 124 sts.
Continue straight until work measures 4.5 ins., ending row on the wrong side.

Shape Top thus:
Continue in patt, dec. 1 st. both ends of next row and every following 3rd row until 98 sts, remain, then dec. both ends of every alternate row until 82 sts. remain.
Cast off 3 st beg. of every for until 22 sts. remain.
Cast off.

The Yoke:- With No. 12 needles and double black thread cast of 94 sts.
Work 16 rows in patt.
Next Row -Patt. 11, cast off 72 patt. to end.
Continue in patt. on last set of 11 sts for 4.5 ins, finishing straight outside edge.
Next Row.-Patt. 11 cast on 37 sts.
Work in patt. on 48 sts for 2.5 ins
Cast off.
Rejoin thread to other 11 sts at inside edge and work to match first side.


Detail of the crochet rosettes [sic]
The Crochet Rosettes.-
With crochet hook and single white thread make 6 ch. and join into a ring with a sl st.
1st round-5 ch, 1 tr into ring, *2 ch, 1 tr into ring: rep from * 6 times, 2 ch, 1 sl st into 3rd of 5 ch, at beg. of round.
2nd round-Work 1 dc, 1tr, 1 long tr [edit: dtr], 1 tr, 1 dc into each of the 8 sp.
3rd round.-Work 4 ch, 1 sc into each tr of 1st round, keeping the loops at the back of petals of 2nd round.
4th round.-Work 1 dc, 2tr, 3 long tr, 2 tr, 1 dc into each of the 8 loops of 4 ch.
Fasten off
Make 67 of these rosettes, 21 for neck border, 46 for yoke.
Sew pairs of petals together, as shown in illustration.
Arrange 13 for back and front of yoke, with 10 for each shoulder; join at right angles the whole forming an oblong.
Work outer border as follows:-
Join white cotton to a petal * work 5 ch, 1 dc into next petal of same flower, 10 ch, 1 dc into first petal of next flower; rep from * all round, working 10 ch at each corner.
Next round.-
3 ch (representing 1 tr) *2 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr into next ch; rep from * all round, making 5 ch, 1tr into same ch as last tr at each corner.
Join at end of round with 2 ch, 1 sl st into first 3 ch.
Next round:-1 dc into each tr and each ch to end.
Next round:- With single black thread work 1 dc into each dc with 3 dc into each corner.
Now work inside border in the same way, but work 1 long tr into join between petals at each corner to keep worksquare, and in next round work 2 tr at right angels at each corner without ch between.
When working dc rounds omit 2 or 3 at corners to keep work flat
Sew rosettes together for next border, arranging 7 for front of neck, 4 at right angels for each shoulder and 3 for each side of back of neck.
Work round these in same way as for yoke, but leaving opening at centre back and working down each short side edge of back opening in same border.

The Sleeve Borders.-With single white thread make a ch about 10 ins long to fit round lower edge of sleeve.
1st row-1 tr into 5th ch from hook, *2 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr into next ch; rep from * to end.
2nd row.-Work 1 dc into each tr and each ch of previous row, then work 1 dc into each ch of foundation edge.
Using single black thread, work a row of dc into each dc on each side of insertion.
Work a second strip in same way.

Press knitted fabric lightly on wrong side with hot iron over damp cloth.
Join side seams.
Sew crochet yoke border neatly in position to back and fronts.
Now sew the knitted yoke neatly to inside edge of crochet yoke, with opening to centre back; then sew the neck border into position.
Work a row of black dc down each back opening edge, making small chain loops for buttons on right side.
Sew on buttons to match loops.
Sew sleeve borders round lower edges of sleeves.
Join sleeve seams and sew into armholes, matching seams with side seams.
Press all seams carefully on wrong side.

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