Vintage Needlework Ads #4

"Sunshine days
Minutes to spare
Hours to live
A time to create
Anything"
The Uncommon Seamstress:
We Don't Underestimate Her.
American Thread 1971
Full page ad: link.

Vintage Needlework Ads #3

"Who says you can't machine-wash-and-dry a rug you've made?! Columbia-Minerva says you can and should...to keep it lovely and lively longer...just as long as you've made it of the one-and-only Columbia-Minerva Washable Rug Yarn. It's made of 100% Acrylic and absolutely sensational for other practical projects such as bikinis and bags...slippers and sweaters... and more. Great idea for the way you live today!"

Columbia-Minerva rug yarn ad 1972

This is one to click and enlarge.

Cool and Pretty, Sport Weight Version

Cool and Pretty

Sport Weight Version

sized for 32”(34,36,38,40 & 42)bust
Actual measurement: 34” (36” 38” 40” 42” 44”)
Sleeve seam: 2”

Materials:
Mary Maxim Lanelle Sport Yarn 10 (12-12-12-14-14) ozs.
1 pair each Mary Mazim Knitting Needles Nos. 8 and 10
Crochet hook No.8 (American No.5)
Crochet hook No.10 (American No.3)
9 Buttons.

Tension: 16 sts = 3” in width measured over pattern.
33 rows = 4” in length measured over pattern.

BACK:
Using smaller needles cast on 90 (96/100/106/112/116)sts. Work 10 rows in k1.p1 rib, increasing 1st at end of last row. Change to larger needles and commence pattern:-
1st row: Knit
2nd and every alt row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit 10 (13/15/2/5/7), *k2tog, (k1, yo) twice, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k9*; rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 10 (13/15/2/5/7).
5th row: Knit 9 (12/14/1/4/6), *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k7*; rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 9 (12/14/1/4/6).
7th row: Knit 12 (15/17/4/7/9), *yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k13*;rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 12 (15/17/4/7/9).
9th row: Knit
11th row: Knit 2 (5/7/10/13/15), work as * to* on 3rd row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 2 (5/7/10/13/15).
13th row: Knit 1 (4/6/9/12/14)Work as *to* on 5th row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 1 (4/6/9/12/14).
15th row: Knit 4 (7/9/12/15/17), work as *to* on 7th row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 4 (7/9/12/15/17).
16th row: Purl.
Rep these 16 rows until Back measures about 14”, ending with an 8th or 16th row of pattern.
Shape Armholes: Note: Omit lacy pattern at each end if shaping would cut across motif. Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 (3/3/5/5/5) rows, then every alt row until 71 (75/77/81/85/87) sts remain. Work straight until armholes measure 7” (7.25”/7.5”/7.75”/8”/8.25) measured straight, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Shoudlers: Cast off 2 (3/3/4/5/5)sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 8 rows, cast of remaing 27 (29/31/33/35/37)sts.

LEFT FRONT: Using smaller needles, cast on 60 (63/66/70/73/77)sts. Work 8 rows in k1, p1 rib. Change to larger needles and commence pattern:-
1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit 2 (5/7/10/13/15), work as *to* as 3rd row of pattern for Back, the last rep ending k4 (front edge).
Keeping pattern correct work 7 rows.
11th row: Knit 10 (13/15/2/5/7), work from *to* as 3rd row, the last rep ending k12.
Keeping lacy pattern correct, work straight until Front measures same as Back to armhole, ending at side edge.
Shape Armhole:
Next row: Cast off 4 sts, work to end.
Dec 1st at armhole edge of next 3 (3/3/5/5/5) rows, then every alt row until 35 (37/39/40/42/43)sts remain.
Work straight until armhole measures 5.75” (6”/6”/6.25”/6.25”/6.5”)ending at front edge.
Shape Neck:
Next row: Cast off 8(9/9/10/9/10), work to end.
Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 (3/3/3/5/5)rows, then every alt row until 22 (23/23/24/25/25) sts remain. Work straight until armhole measures same as those of Back ending at side edge.
Shape Shoulder:
Next row: Cast off 2 (3/3/4/5/5), work to end..
Now cast off 5 sts at beg of alt rows until all sts are worked off.

RIGHT FRONT:
Work as Left Front reversing shaping. Place pattern thus:-
3rd row: k4(front edge), work as 3rd row of Back from * to*, the lat repeat ending knit 2 (5/7/10/13/15).

SLEEVES: Using larger needles cast on 59 (61/65/67/69/75). Work 2 rows in st st.
3rd row: Knit 2 (3/5/6/7/2), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last rep ending knit 2 (3/5/6/7/2).
Bringing extra sts into pattern inc 1 st at each end of next and every alt row until there are 69 (71/75/77/79/85)sts.
Work straight until Sleeve measures 2” ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Top:
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 (7/9/9/9/11)rows, then every alt row until 29 sts remain.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 rows.
Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Cast off.

COLLAR: (Starting at neck) Using larger needles cast on 75 (77/79/81/91/95)and work 2 rows in st st.
Next row: Knit 10 (11/12/13/10/12), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last rep ending knit 10 (11/12/13/10/12).
Work 7 more rows in pattern.
Next row: Knit 2 (3/4/5/2/4), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last repeat ending knit 2 (3/4/5/2/4).
Continue in pattern untl Collar measures 2.5” ending with a wrong side row.
Dec 1 st each end of next 3 rows. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast off.

SLEEVE EDGINGS: With right side of work facing work 1 row of slip st along bottom of sleeves, taking 1 st from each st. Break yarn.
2nd row: (With right side facing )Join yarn to first sl st, 4ch* miss 1 sl st, 1dc into next sl st, (working through both loops) 1 ch; rep from * to end, sl st into 3rd of 4ch at beg of row. Turn (There should be an even number of spaces).
3rd row: 1ch, then into first and every alt space work (1sc, 3ch, 1sc), turn at end.
4th row: Work *[1 sc, (1 hdc, 1ch)twice, 1hdc, 1sc] into first arch of 3ch, 1sc into space made in 2nd row between the arches; rep from *to end. Fasten off.

TO MAKE UP:
Press pieces using a warm iron and damp cloth. Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams. Insert sleeves.
Front and collar edgings: Work as sleeve edging taking about 5 sl sts from each inch along side edges of collar and up fronts. On 2nd row there should be an odd number of spaces. Sew collar to neck. Press seams. Sew buttons to left front spacing them evenly and using holes in crocheted edging as buttonholes.
Originnaly published in Mary Maxim Fashion Forecast circa 1967

Cool and Pretty, Fingering Weight Version

Cool and Pretty

Fingering Weight Version

sized for 32”(34,36,38,40 & 42)bust
Actual measurement: 34” (36” 38” 40” 42” 44”)
Sleeve seam: 2”

Materials:
Mary Maxim 4 Ply Super Fingering 8 (9-9-10-11-12)ozs.
1 pair each Mary Mazim Knitting Needles Nos. 10 and 12
Crochet hook No.10 (American No.3)
Crochet hook No.12 (American No.1)
9 Buttons.

Tension: 7 sts and 10 rows=1”square measured over pattern.


BACK:
Using smaller needles cast on 120 (126/132/140/146/154)sts. Work 10 rows in k1.p1 rib, increasing 1st at end of last row. Change to larger needles and commence pattern:-
1st row: Knit
2nd and every alt row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit 9 (12/15/3/6/10), *k2tog, (k1, yo) twice, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k9*; rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 9 (12/15/3/6/10).
5th row: Knit 8 (11/14/2/5/9), *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k7*; rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 8 (11/14/2/5/9).
7th row: Knit 11(14/17/5/8/12), *yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k13*;rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 11 (14/17/5/8/12).
9th row: Knit
11th row: Knit 1(4/7/11/14/2), work as * to* on 3rd row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 1(4/7/11/14/2).
13th row: Knit 0(3/6/10/13/1)Work as *to* on 5th row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 0(3/6/10/13/1).
15th row: Knit 3 (6/9/13/16/4), work as *to* on 7th row, rep from * to *, the last rep ending knit 3 (6/9/13/16/4).
16th row: Purl.
Rep these 16 rows until Back measures about 14”, ending with an 8th or 16th row of pattern.
Shape Armholes: Note: Omit lacy pattern at each end if shaping would cut across motif. Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 (5/7/7/9/9) rows, then ecery alt row until 93 (97/101/105/109/113) sts remain. Work straight until armholes measure 7” (7.25”/7.5”/7.75”/8”/8.25”)measured straight, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Shoudlers: Cast off 4 (5/6/6/7/8)sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast of 5 sts at beg of next 10 rows, cast of remaing 35 (37/39/43/45/47)sts.

LEFT FRONT: Using smaller needles, cast on 60 (63/66/70/73/77)sts. Work 10 rows in k1, p1 rib. Change to larger needles and commence pattern:-
1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit 1(4/7/11/14/2), work as *to* as 3rd row of pattern for Back, the last rep ending k4 (front edge).
Keeping pattern correct work 7 rows.
11th row: Knit 9 (12/15/3/6/10), work from *to* as 3rd row, the last rep ending k12.
Keeping lacy pattern correct, work straight until Front measures same as Back to armhole, ending at side edge.
Shape Armhole:
Next row: Cast off 5sts, work to end.
Dec 1st at armhole edge of next 5 (5/7/7/9/9) rows, then every alt row until 46 (48/50/52/54/56)sts remain.
Work straight until armhole measures 5.75” (6”/6”/6.25”/6.25”/6.5”)ending at front edge.
Shape Neck:
Next row: Cast off 10(11/11/13/12/13), work to end.
Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 5 (5/5/5/7/7)rows, then every alt row until 29 (30/31/31/32/33) sts remain. Work straight until armhole measures same as those of Back ending at side edge.
Shape Shoulder:
Next row: Cast off 4 (5/6/6/7/8), work to end..
Now cast off 5 sts at beg of alt rows until all sts are worked off.

RIGHT FRONT:
Work as Left Front reversing shaping. Place pattern thus:-
3rd row: k4(front edge), work as 3rd row of Back from * to*, the lat repeat ending knit 1(4/7/11/14/2).

SLEEVES: Using larger needles cast on 75 (79/85/91/95/99). Work 2 rows in st st.
3rd row: Knit 2 (4/7/2/4/6), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last rep ending knit 2 (4/7/2/4/6).
Bringin extra sts into pattern inc 1 st at each end of next and every alt row until there are 89 (93/99/105/109/113)sts.
Work straight until Sleeve measures 2: ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Top:
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 9 (9/11/11/11/13)rows, then every alt row until 41 sts remain.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 rows.
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Cast off.

COLLAR: (Starting at neck) Using larger needles cast on 91 (95/107/111/123/127)and work 4 rows in st st.
Next row: Knit 10 (12/10/12/10/12), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last rep ending knit 10 (12/10/12/10/12).
Work 7 more rows in pattern.
Next row: Knit 2 (4/2/4/2/4), work as 3rd row of Back from *to*, the last repeat ending knit 2 (4/2/4/2/4).
Continue in pattern untl Collar measures 2.5” ending with a wrong side row.
Dec 1 st each end of next 3 rows. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast off.

SLEEVE EDGINGS: With right side of work facing work 1 row of slip st along bottom of sleeves, taking 1 st from each st. Break yarn.
2nd row: (With right side facing )Join yarn to first sl st, 4ch* miss 1 sl st, 1dc into next sl st, (working through both loops) 1 ch; rep from * to end, sl st into 3rd of 4ch at beg of row. Turn (There should be an even number of spaces).
3rd row: 1ch, then into first and every alt space work (1sc, 3ch, 1sc), turn at end.
4th row: Work *[1 sc, (1 hdc, 1ch)twice, 1hdc, 1sc] into first arch of 3ch, 1sc into space made in 2nd row between the arches; rep from *to end. Fasten off.

TO MAKE UP:
Press pieces using a warm iron and damp cloth. Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams. Insert sleeves.
Front and collar edgings: Work as sleeve edging taking about 7 sl sts from each inch along side edges of collar and up fronts. On 2nd row there should be an odd number of spaces. Sew collar to neck. Press seams. Sew buttons to left front spacing them evenly and using holes in crocheted edging as buttonholes.
Originally published in Mary Maxim Fashion Forecast circa 1967

Not a Man's Woman, but a Boye's Girl.

Or, Vintage Needlework Ads #2


Boye's Ad and T-shirt offer circa 1970. I would love one of these shirts. Boye's crochet hooks really are my favorites. I used them in high school and spent hours scouring the Goodwill for ways to emulate the "Boye's Girl's" look. I would still like to find her jeans. OK, the whole look and 'do.

Today you can find a "Needlemaster" (or some-such) kit from Boye much like the small rectangular one pictured. I endorse them wholeheartedly, particularly for those crocheters with tight tensions or those who would like to become speedier workers.

I'm a sucker for the great shiny colours they come in. The hook is slidey but not slippery, the crook is gently curved as opposed to notched and the tip is rounded and not at all pokey-though there is an apex for attacking stiff fabric.
A notched hook crook is particularly problematic for beginners; stitches are apt to slip into no mans land and tighten up, locking them in place.
If you find aluminum hooks hard on your hands, I would suggest a rubber pencil sleeve (for hooks that are pencil thickness)

It is hard to talk about Boyes without being misunderstood.

Vintage Needlework Ads #1

The uncommon girl...
Doing my own thing...Creating my own clothes...
That's why I use Dawn Yarns...
They know where I'm at...

The Uncommon Girl: We Don't Underestimate Her.

American Thread 'For Uncommon Ideas'
Ad circa 1971, and one of my favorites.

Full Page Ad: link

Doilies & Their Gauge

For years I've had problems finding the correct gauge for thread crochet projects. I hate the stringy look I get if my hook is too large or my thread too heavy for the pattern. If I make an effort to work tightly, my hand hurts and locks into place (I have fibromyalgia).
I have found two solutions. The first is to work all patterns using almost-European stitch standards. That is, I work a US half-double crochet when the pattern calls for a double. Triples, I work as doubles.
I only recently discovered that I have been working the hdc incorrectly for years (having been taught by a Scottish Granny who didn't really use them)and now I find them very quick and useful.
Of course in patterns with less open areas this small adjustment can have some huge ramifications. Proceed with caution, I guess.

The main revelation I had in the last little bit (I like to have my epiphanies in lumps)I will try to share as clearly as poss.

Potential Gauges for Crochet Cotton and Lace Threads

No.3 (fingering weight) /3.5mm (4ply)

No.5 (pearl cotton)/2mm (2ply)
3"x3"=33dc x 15rows

No.8 (pearl cotton)/1.5mm (2ply)

No.10 (bedspread weight)/1.5mm
3"x3"=36dc x 16rows

No.20 (thread)/1.25mm
3"x3"=40dc x 16rows

No.30 (thread)/1.00mm
3"x3"=45dc x 18rows

Gauge will be as personal a thing as ever, but these hook sizes should provide fairly firm but friendly results. Please feel free to comment and/or disagree with me. I am still learning.

Found in Translation

I love sloppy reinterpretations; the 1930s as portrayed by the 1970s, Victoriana in the 80s, kitsch by conservative knitters, dance wear right now, environmentalism...
The Japanese are crowned princes at clever and slightly blind reinterpretation, as evidenced by their fascination with doilies. In their slightly off-kilter, anachronistic take on western crochet, they are often closer to the mark than our western memories are.
The best 'West as triumphed by the East' books are published by Ondori. I am working from their book "Crochet Lace". PM me for details.


The book is beautiful and contains many different styles; pineapples, filet, spirals, beading. There are doilies with a patina look, and many crisp white choices. What I really admire is that starching seams to be kept to a minimum. I also like the idea of having to protect martinis from bugs

Japanese crochet books work with charts, as opposed to row by row written instructions (else I would need a translation). I am a bit of a convert. I am starting to think that all crochet instruction should be written this way. Pattern language is usually the stumbling block for the beginners and often trips us up in my crochet workshops.

I worked my bugstopper with No.10 Crochet Cotton. I used a 1.65mm hook and a collapsible eye needle to string on the beads. For those readers in Halifax, DeSerres sells sets of these needles and they are great. A tip for buying beads? Take your cotton or yarn with you to the store! Brilliant, I know.