Such Flattering Puff Sleeves! Lady's Vintage Rib Sweater

Knitted all in ribbing, this charming jumper has a simple square neck-line and attractively shaped sleeves.
The puffed sleeves are most cleverly shaped!

MATERIALS -
6 ounces of Greenock Super Fingering 4-ply (obtainable only from branches of SCOTCH WOOL & HOSIERY STORES); and a pair each of Stratnoid knitting pins No. 9 and No.10.
A pair of paste clips expertly pinned into the square neck.

TENSION AND MEASUREMENTS-
Worked at a tension of 9 sts to the inch in width on No. 9 pins, with the ribs closed, the measurements on the diagram are attained after light pressing. It should be remembered, however, that the rib pattern will expand to a bust measurement of 37 inches.

ABBREVIATIONS: TO BE READ BEFORE WORKING-K, knit plain; p, purl; st, stitch; inc, increase (by working into the back and front of the same stitch); dec, decrease; rib is k2 and p2 alternately. Directions in brackets are worked the number of lines stated immediatly after the brackets.


The Back
With No. 10 pins cast on 112 st and work 24 rows in ribm working into the back of the sts on the first row to give a neat edge.
Change to No. 9 pins and work 76 rows more in rib to armholes.
To Shape the Armholes. -Continue rib, casting off 5 sts at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows, then decrease at both ends of the following row, when 100sts will remain.
Work 49 rows straight on these sts.
Cast off straight across.

The Front
This is worked exactly the same as the Back until the armhole shaping is finished and 100st remain.
Work 25 rows straight on these sts to neck.
On the next row the sts are divided for the neck opening as follows :Rib 26 and slip these sts on a stitch-holder until needed for shoulder, cast off 48 sts (1 st on pin), rib to end (26 sts)
Work 24 rows straight on these sts.
Cast off.
Join the wool to the nck end of remaining 26 sts and rib 23 rows. Cast off.

The Sleeves
Begin at the arm end, and using No. 10 pins, cast on 64 sts. Work 16 rows in rib. Change to No. 9 pins and work 16 rows in same rib.
Now shape for the puffed tops as follows:
**1st increase row:*(K2 p2) twice, inc. in each of the next 4 sts; repeat from * until 4 remain, k2, p2 (84 st)
Next row: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Work 4 rows more in rib as set on the last fow, decreasing at both ends of each of these rows (76sts)
Repeat the last 6 rows from ** once more (92 sts)
3rd increase row: K2, p2 * (k2, p2) twice inc in each of the next 4 sts; repeat from * until 4 remain, k2. p2 (120sts)
Work 5 rows straight in rib as set on the last row.
***4th increase row: K2, p2, *(k2, p2) twice, inc in each of the next 4 sts; repeat from * until 8 remain (k2, p2) twice (156 sts)
Work 5 rows in rib as set on the last row.
Repeat the last 6 rows from *** once more (204 sts)
Work 4 rows in rib, decreasing at both ends of each of these rows (196 sts)
Next row: *(k2 p2) twice, (k2tog) 4 times; repeat from * until 4 remain, k2 p2 (148 sts)
Rib 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more (112 sts)
Next row: *(K2 p2) twice, (k2tog) 4 times; repeat from * to end (84 sts)
Rib 1 row.
Cast off rather tightly.
Work a second sleeve in the same manner.

TO MAKE UP THE JUMPER-
Join the shoulder seams, beginning at the armhole end and taking 1 st from each side at a time.
Gather the cast-off edge of sleeve and set the sleeve top into armhole. Join the sleeve and sideseam in one long line.
Press the seams only on the wrong side with a hot iron over a damp cloth.


Originaly published in “My Home” 1938

Opera Top Vest, Vintage Lingerie

IN THREE SIZES

Be lovely, be warm! Here is a vest that has the charm of simplicity. It will keep you warm without looking or feeling bulky. The original was knitted in pale blue and looked pretty enough to add to a trousseau.


MATERIALS
4 oz. 2-ply wool (for any of the 3 sizes)
1 pair No. 10 and 1 No. 5 needle.
Ribbon for shoulder straps.

MEASUREMENTS
Length: Size 1, 26 ins,; size 2, 27 ins. ; size 3, 28 ins.
Bust: Size 1, 32 ins. to 34 ins.; size 2, 36 ins. to 38 ins. ; size 3, 40 ins. to 42 ins.

TENSION
6.5 sts. to 1 ins. over st.st.

The vest is worked throught out with 1 No. 10 and 1 No. 5 needle, with the exception of the ribbing at waist and the patterned border at top edge.
The numbers of sts. in brackets refer to the two larger sizes.

The Front.-
Using the No. 5 needle cast on 104 sts. (117) (130). Now work in g.st. (each row K) for 4 rows, using 1 No. 10 and 1 No. 5 needle.
Continue in patt. as follows:-
1st row.-K.
2nd row.-P.
3rd row:-*P. 2tog., p.2tog., k. 1, (m. 1, k, 1) 4 times, p. 2tog., p. 2tog.; rep. from * to end of row.
4th row:- P.

These 4 rows form one pattern.
Rep. them twice more, then work 4 rows in g.st.
Continue in st.st. until work measures 11.5 ins. ending with row on wrong side.
Now start shapings for waist.

Next Row.-K. 26 (31) (34), sl. 1, k. 1, p.s.s.o., k. 9, k. 2 tog., k. 26 (29) (36), sl 1., k. 1, p.s.s.o., k. 9, k. 2tog.,k.26 (31) (34).
Work 7 rows without dec.
Next Row.-K 26 (31) (34), sl. 1, k. 1 p.s.s.o., k. 7, k. 2tog., k. 26 (29) (36) sl 1, k. 1, p.s.s.o., k. 7, k. 2tog, k. 26 (31) (34).
Work 7 rows without dec.
Next Row.-K 26 (31) (34), sl. 1, k. 1 p.s.s.o., k. 5, k. 2tog., k. 26 (29) (36) sl 1, k. 1, p.s.s.o., k. 5, k. 2tog, k. 26 (31) (34).
Work 7 rows without dec.
Next Row.-K 26 (31) (34), sl. 1, k. 1 p.s.s.o., k. 3, k. 2tog., k. 26 (29) (36) sl 1, k. 1, p.s.s.o., k. 3, k. 2tog, k. 26 (31) (34).
Work 7 rows without dec.
Next Row.-K 26 (31) (34), sl. 1, k. 1 p.s.s.o., k. 1, k. 2tog., k. 26 (29) (36) sl 1, k. 1, p.s.s.o., k. 1, k. 2tog, k. 26 (31) (34).
Work 7 rows without dec.
Next Row.-K. 26 (31) (34), sl. 1, k. 2tog., p.s.s.o., k.26 (29) (36), sl.1, k. 2tog., p.s.s.o., k. 26 (31) (34). Work should now measure about 16.5 ins. from lower edge. If not, continue without shaping until it does.
Change to No. 10 needles and work in k. 1, p. 1 rib on the 80 (93) (106) sts. for 3 ins., ending with row on wrong side.
Change to 1 No. 10 and No. 5 needle and inc. for bust as follows:-
Next Row. K. 26 (31) (34), inc. 2 in next st. by knitting into back, front and back again, k. 26 (29) (36), inc. 2 in next st., k. 26 (31) (34).
Work 3 rows in st.st.
Next Row.- K. 26 (31) (34), inc. 1 st. in next st., by knitting into back and front of next st., k. 1, inc. in next st., k. 26 (29) (36), inc. in next st. k. 1, inc. in next st., k. 26 (31) (34).
Rep. the last 4 rows 4 times more; working 2 extra sts. between each pair of increases each time, until there are 104 (117) (130) sts. on needle.
Continue in st.st. without further inc. until work measures 24.5 ins. (25.5) (26.5), ending with row on wrong side.
Change to 2 No. 10 needles and work 4 rows in g.st.
Then rep. the 4 rows of lace patt. 3 times.
Work 4 rows in g.st. Cast Off.

The vest has feather-pattern border at the top and lower edges; it can be knitted in three sizes.
The Back.-
Continue exactly as given for front until the waist ribbing has been worked, ending with row on wrong side (80) (93) (106) sts.
Continue in st.st without shaping until work measures 24.5 ins. (25.5) (26.5), ending with row on wrong side.
Change to 2 No. 10 needles and work 4 rows in g.st., dec. 1 st. each end of 1st row.
Now work 12 rows in lace patt. and 4 rows in g.st. to match front.
Cast off loosely.

Make-up.-
Press the work lightly on the wrong side using a warm iron and damp clpth.
Sew up side seams.
Attach ribbon shoulder straps.
Press seams.


Detail of the feather -pattern which trims the vest.

-Modern Knitting Illustrated 1945

Free Vintage Patterns

A few notes:
All of the vintage patterns on this site are public domain. This means that their copyright has expired and that they are free for you to use. If you have information about their origins and believe them to be private property, let me know and I will remove them.
All instructions have been re-typed by me and nominal changes have been made for readablity.
No changes have been made to needle size or yarn requirements. If you have questions about these leave a comment. The Victoria and Albert Museum hosts a conversion chart for modern needle sizes. Vintage Purls is an excellent resource as well.
I hope you enjoy these patterns and that you will share your results!
More to come,
Morgan

First up:
Afternoon Jumper 1945
Light & Lovely 1947

Light & Lovely, Lady's Vintage Lace Sweater

MATERIALS:
1 oz Paton’s Beehive Fingering, 2-ply (“Patonised” shrink-resist finish), pink: a small quantity of contrasting-colour wool for the crochet edging; a pair each of No.9 and No.12 knitting needles; a medium-sized crochet hook; and a littly cotton wool.
MEASUREMENTS (AFTER PRESSING):
Length from lower edge to top of shoulder, 21 inches; length of sleeve, along seam, 8.5 inches; to fit a 34 to 36-inch bust.
TENSION:
Two patterns in width to 3.5 inches, and one pattern in depth to 2 inches.
ABBREVIATIONS:
St(S), stitch(es); k, knit; p, purl; tog, together; rep, repeat; rem, remain(s)(ing)(der); inc, increase(ing); dec, decrease(ing); m, make; sl, slip; psso, pass the slipped stitch over; inst, instead of; patt, pattern; ch, chain; d.c., double crochet.

THE BACK
With No. 12 needles cast on 100 sts, and k1 p1 rib for 35 rows.
36th row: *Inc, rib 4; rep from *, ending row by in. rib 3 inc (121 sts).
Now change to No. 9 needles and patt thus:
1st row: All K
2nd row: All p
3rd row: K5, *m 1, sl 1, k2tog, and psso, m1, k9; rep from *, end row by k5 (inst. k9).
4th row: All p. Similarly every following even row.
5th row: K3, *k2tog, m1, k3, m1, sl1, k1, and psso, k5; rep from *, end row by k3 (inst k5)
7th row: As 3rd row.
9th row: All k.
11th row: K 11* m1, sl1, k2tog, and psso, m1, k9; rep from * end row by k11 (inst k9)
15th row: As 11th row
16th row: All p
These 16 rows compose the pattern. Work 5 more entire patts. (6 in all).
To Shape the Armholes.-
Cast off 4 sts, at the beginning of each of the next 6 rows, then k2tog at both ends of each of the following 6 rows (85 sts). Cast off, loosely.

THE LEFT PORTION OF YOKE
With No.9 needles cast on 45 sts.
1st row: All k
2nd row: p 41, k4 and similarly every following even row. NB-These last 4 sts are worked in garter st to the end of piece.
3rd row: K 11; rep from *in 5th row of patt, ending rob by k3 (inst k5)
5th row: K 13 rep from * in 3rd row of patt, ending row by k5 (inst k9)
Keeping intact the border of 4 sts in garter st and the next 4 sts in stocking st, on the rem. 37 sts. work in patt as Black, working straight until 52 rows have in all been worked. Cast off.

THE RIGHT PORTION OF YOKE
Cast on 41 sts.
1st row: All k
2nd row: All p
3rd row: K 3; rep. from * in 5th row of patt, ending row by k7 (inst k5)
Working 37 sts in patt, as for Back and the last 4 sts in stocking st, work straight to match the Left portion.

THE FRONT
Work as directed for the Back until 6 entire patts have been completed.
To Shape the Armholes
Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of each of the next 6 rows (97 sts). Work straight for 5 more rows.
Next row (wrong side of work): p 21, (p2tog) 6 times, p 31 (p2tog) 6 times, p21 (85 sts). Cast off.

THE YOKE
Cast on 85 sts and p 1 row.
Next row: As 13th row of patt.
Work in patt. as usual, until 29 rows in patt. have been worked.
To Shape the Neck -
Next row (wrong side): p37, cast off 11, p to end.
Leave the first set of 37 sts for the present, and work One Shoulder thus:
On the Neck edge k2tog every row until 27 sts rem. Work straight for 22 more rows. Cast off.
Now revert tot hte set of 37 sts. and work the other Shoulder in the same manner, and to match.

THE SLEEVES (both alike)
With No. 12 needles cast on 84 sts, and k1 p1 rib for 15 rows.
16th row: Rib 6 *inc rib 2; rep. from * ending row bt inc rib 5 (109 sts)
Now change to No.9 needles, and work in patt as for Back until three entire patts and the first 8 rows of 4th patt have been completed.
To Shape the Top -
Cast off 3 sts at the beginning of each of the next 6 rows, then k2tog at the end of each row until 51 st s rem. Work straight for 14 more rows. Cast off 17 sts at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows (17 sts). Work straight in stocking st for 17 more rows. Cast off.

THE COLLAR
With No. 12 needles cast on 130 sts, and k1 p1 rib for 10 rows. Cast off.

THE BOWS (2 alike)
With No. 9 needles cast on 16 sts and work 4 rows in garter st, then commence in patt. thus:
1st row: k2, *m1, k2tog: rep from * end row by k2.
2nd row: K2, p until 2 rem. k2.
These 2 rows compose the patt
Work 5 more patts (6 in all)/
Next row: K2tog for the entire row (8 sts).
Net row: Inc 1 st in every st (16 sts), then rep 1st and 2nd rows of patt for 6 patts more, followed by 4 rows in garter st. Cast off. Work a second similar piece in the same way.

THE BUTTONS (8 alike)
With the crochet hook work 4 ch and fasten so as to form a ring, into which work 10 dc for the first round. Working dc over dc, work for 20 more dc, then insert a tuft of cotton wool and cover by working dc in every alternate dc until closed. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY AND FINISH
Join together the two pieces of Back Yoke to the Front Yoke by sewing up the shoulder seams. Using pink wool and the crochet hook, work 3 rows dc along the inner edge of right portion of Back Yoke, working 8 loops in the last row. Using contrasting wool, work 1 row dc all around the outer edge of the yoke; also round the edges of the bows.
Carefully press all the pieces on the wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron.
Neatly sew the lower portions of both Back and Front underneath the dc edging of the yoke. Sew the outer edges of the last 17 rows at top of sleeves to the cast off edges of 17 sts and neatly sew tops of sleeves underneath the crochet edging of yoke.
Sew collar to neck edge, folded in two lengthwise. Press seams while garment is still open. Sew up rem seams and press. Sew on buttons at back. Gather each bow in the centre and sew on as illustrated.
Originally published in Woman Illustrated, 1947

Afternoon Jumper, Vintage Lady's Sweater

A KNITTED JUMPER WITH A CROCHETED FLOWER INSET


Black and white in knitting and crochet -fashion’s leading alliance:
This smart little jumper will distinguish itself anywhere, but is at its best worn with a black tailored suit. Instructions are for 34 in. bust.
-Modern Knitting Illustrated 1945

MATERIALS
5 2-oz spools black thread No. 20.
2 balls white crochet cotton No. 40.
2 No. 10 and 2 No. 12 knitting needles.
A No. 6 crochet hook.
3 small white buttons.

MEASUREMENTS
Length, 18 ins.
Bust size, 34 ins.
Sleeve seam, 4.5 ins.

TENSION
With No. 12 needles about 11 sts. to 1 in.; with No. 10 needles about 10 sts. to 1 inch; both measured over patt. in double thread.

N.B.-Work with black thread used double throughout.



The jumper is knitted throughout with double thread in order to give it a neat, firm texture; the crocheted rosettes are inset into the jumper to form the smart and unusual yoke. The sleeves have a tiny crocheted border.

The Front and Back Alike.-
With No. 12 needles and double black thread cast on 154 sts.
Work in patt.:-
1st row-*K1, w.fd, sl 1 pw (edit: slip one purl wise), w. bk.; rep. from * to end.
2nd row-*p1, w.bk, sl 1pw, w.fd; rep. from * to end.
These 2 rows form patt. Continue in patt. until work measures 3 ins., ending row on wrong side, i.e. 2nd patt. row.
Change to No. 10 needles and continue in patt. inc. 1 st bot ends of every 12th row until there are 174 sts. Continue straight until work measures 12 ins. ending row on wrong side.

Shape Armholes thus;
Continue in patt., cast off 6 st beg. of next 2 rows.
Dec. 1 st both ends of every row unti 142 sts. remain.
Work 4 rows straight in patt.
Cast off.
Work a second piece in same way.

The Sleeves. -
With No. 12 needles and double black thread cast on 116 sts.
Work in pattern for 1 in, inc. 1 st both ends of next row, then continue in pattern until work measres 1.5 ins.
Change to No. 10 needles and continue in patt, inc. 1 st both ends of 7th row and every following 12th row until 124 sts.
Continue straight until work measures 4.5 ins., ending row on the wrong side.

Shape Top thus:
Continue in patt, dec. 1 st. both ends of next row and every following 3rd row until 98 sts, remain, then dec. both ends of every alternate row until 82 sts. remain.
Cast off 3 st beg. of every for until 22 sts. remain.
Cast off.

The Yoke:- With No. 12 needles and double black thread cast of 94 sts.
Work 16 rows in patt.
Next Row -Patt. 11, cast off 72 patt. to end.
Continue in patt. on last set of 11 sts for 4.5 ins, finishing straight outside edge.
Next Row.-Patt. 11 cast on 37 sts.
Work in patt. on 48 sts for 2.5 ins
Cast off.
Rejoin thread to other 11 sts at inside edge and work to match first side.

THE ROSETTE INSET

Detail of the crochet rosettes [sic]
The Crochet Rosettes.-
With crochet hook and single white thread make 6 ch. and join into a ring with a sl st.
1st round-5 ch, 1 tr into ring, *2 ch, 1 tr into ring: rep from * 6 times, 2 ch, 1 sl st into 3rd of 5 ch, at beg. of round.
2nd round-Work 1 dc, 1tr, 1 long tr [edit: dtr], 1 tr, 1 dc into each of the 8 sp.
3rd round.-Work 4 ch, 1 sc into each tr of 1st round, keeping the loops at the back of petals of 2nd round.
4th round.-Work 1 dc, 2tr, 3 long tr, 2 tr, 1 dc into each of the 8 loops of 4 ch.
Fasten off
Make 67 of these rosettes, 21 for neck border, 46 for yoke.
Sew pairs of petals together, as shown in illustration.
Arrange 13 for back and front of yoke, with 10 for each shoulder; join at right angles the whole forming an oblong.
Work outer border as follows:-
Join white cotton to a petal * work 5 ch, 1 dc into next petal of same flower, 10 ch, 1 dc into first petal of next flower; rep from * all round, working 10 ch at each corner.
Next round.-
3 ch (representing 1 tr) *2 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr into next ch; rep from * all round, making 5 ch, 1tr into same ch as last tr at each corner.
Join at end of round with 2 ch, 1 sl st into first 3 ch.
Next round:-1 dc into each tr and each ch to end.
Next round:- With single black thread work 1 dc into each dc with 3 dc into each corner.
Now work inside border in the same way, but work 1 long tr into join between petals at each corner to keep worksquare, and in next round work 2 tr at right angels at each corner without ch between.
When working dc rounds omit 2 or 3 at corners to keep work flat
Sew rosettes together for next border, arranging 7 for front of neck, 4 at right angels for each shoulder and 3 for each side of back of neck.
Work round these in same way as for yoke, but leaving opening at centre back and working down each short side edge of back opening in same border.

The Sleeve Borders.-With single white thread make a ch about 10 ins long to fit round lower edge of sleeve.
1st row-1 tr into 5th ch from hook, *2 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr into next ch; rep from * to end.
2nd row.-Work 1 dc into each tr and each ch of previous row, then work 1 dc into each ch of foundation edge.
Using single black thread, work a row of dc into each dc on each side of insertion.
Work a second strip in same way.

MAKE UP
Press knitted fabric lightly on wrong side with hot iron over damp cloth.
Join side seams.
Sew crochet yoke border neatly in position to back and fronts.
Now sew the knitted yoke neatly to inside edge of crochet yoke, with opening to centre back; then sew the neck border into position.
Work a row of black dc down each back opening edge, making small chain loops for buttons on right side.
Sew on buttons to match loops.
Sew sleeve borders round lower edges of sleeves.
Join sleeve seams and sew into armholes, matching seams with side seams.
Press all seams carefully on wrong side.

In a few days I'll be adding a new free Vintage Pattern Section.
I've been working my way through the 30s and 40s, retro gauges turning out firm ribbed waists and smart square necks (as well as outrageously puffed sleeves).
Texture, laces and bobbles are providing a welcome foil for the traditional shetland stranded colour work I'm quickly becoming obsessed with. These classic lozenge and cross (OXO) patterns are based on 1850s museum samples and follow all the cardinal Fair Isle rules of colour and design.
The sample below is coming up at 10st/1" in Knit Picks' 'palette' (I bought the sampler pack).
Wow, bad photo.
Soundtrack: "Mannequin Bird to a Coati", Morgan Forrester

Belle Brummell

The Danish Doily is one of the prettiest forms of Knitted Lace, but what do you do when your house is fully frilled and you're turning into a froufrou house frau?
Here, I’ve taken a Danish Doily pattern, “Julie” , adjusted the gauge and used an extra special local alpaca for a Jabot inspired by Beau Brummell (that arbiter elegantiarum). Wear under blouses for a touch of lace or use as an extra layer of warmth. Only you will know how far the lace extends (indeed the edging makes the diameter adjustable). I think that's delicious.

1 skein Fingering Weight Alpaca, Wilton Road Custom Fibre Mill
1 set 3.5mm dpns
3.5mm circular needle 24”ish
3mm crochet hook
1 very special button for closure at back of neck.

Gauge: 5.5st =1”

Cast on 12 stitches, and divide onto 3 needles, joining in your favorite method (I cast on to one needle, then divide onto double points and cross the first and last stitches. If you want to avoid a centre space, I suggest the magic loop method)

Take extra care to avoid gaps between dpns. I wish I had!
Here are two thoughts. Every few rows, shift your stitches over by two or so on each needle, maintaining an equal distribution of stitches. Also, remember that the second stitch on each needle controls tension. Give an extra tug on this stitch and the first stitch should shift into place.
Knit one round.
Begin Julie Pattern
When dpns get crowded, switch to circular needle.




English Translation ©Morgan Forrester
Pattern available in original Danish at http://www.flittigehaender.dk/

Julie Pattern:
1: *K1, yo, K1*
2: Knit -note: all even rows are knit. I have included them here because I think it looks both attractive and makes it easier to read pattern rows.
3: *K1, yo, K1b, yo, K1*
4: Knit
5: *K1, (yo, K1b)3, yo, K1*
6: Knit
7: K2tog, K1, (yo, K1b)3, yo, K1, ssk
8: Knit
9: K2tog, K2, (yo, K1b)3, yo, K2, ssk
10: Knit
11: K2tog, K3, (yo, K1b)3, yo, K3, ssk
12: Knit
13: K2tog, K4, (yo, K1b)3, yo, K4, ssk
14: Knit
15: yo, K2tog, K5, (yo, Kib)3, yo, K5, ssk
16: Knit
17: yo, Kib, yo, K19
18: Knit
19: yo, K3, yo, K19
20: Knit
21: yo, K1b, yo, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, yo, K1b, yo, ssk, K15, K2tog
22: Knit
23: yo, K3, yo, K1b, yo, K3, yo, ssk, K13, K2tog
24: Knit
25: yo, K1b, (yo, sl1, K2tog, psso)3, yo, K1b, yo, ssk, K11, K2tog
26: Knit
27: (yo, K3, yo, K1b)2, yo K3, yo, ssk, K9, K2tog
28: Knit
29: yo, K1b, (yo, sl1, K2tog, psso)5, yo, K1b, yo, ssk, K7, K2tog
30: Knit
31: (yo, K3, yo, K1b)3, yo, K3, yo, ssk, K5, K2tog
32: Knit
33: yo, K1b, (yo, sl1, K2tog, psso)7, yo, K1b, yo, ssk, K3, K2tog
34: Knit
35: (yo, K3, yo, K1b)4, yo, K3, yo ssk, K1, K2tog
36: Knit
37: yo, K1b, (yo, sl 1, K2tog, psso)9, yo, K1b, yo, sl1, K2tog, psso
38: Knit
39: yo, K11, yo, K1b
40: Knit
41: yo, K1, yo, K4, sl1 K2tog, psso, K4, yo, K1, yo, K1
42: Knit
43: yo, K1, yo, ssk, yo, K3, sl1 K2tog psso, K3, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, K1
44: Knit
45: yo, K1, yo, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, K2, sl1,K2tog, psso, K2, yo, K2tog yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, K1
46: Knit
EDIT:
47: yo, K1, yo, (ssk, yo)3, K1, sl1,K2tog, psso, K1, (yo, K2 tog)3, yo, K1, yo, K1
48: Knit
49: Move 1 stitch over and mark new beginning of round. (yo, ssk)4, yo, sl1 K2tog, psso, yo, (K2tog, yo)4, sl1 K2tog, psso
50: Knit


Edging:
This Crochet Edging binds off the work. As you progress through the first round, stitches are removed from the dpns or circular needle and secured by the crochet hook. This is a common technique in Danish and Icelandic knitting and adds a feminine yet graphic feel. It also helps with drape.
This type of crochet edging is also a simple way to add extra inches to your finished project. Please, won’t you at least work 2?
Round 1: Crochet next 3 stitches together, *ch7, crochet 2 stitches together from circular needle*
Round 2: Sl st into first 4 ch st of beginning ch 7 arch. *ch 7, sc into 4th st of next arch*
Repeat * to* to end of round. Ch 7, and sl st into 4th st of first arch of round.
Repeat round 2 to desired length if a larger piece is desired.
Ch 7 (or appropriate number) and slip stitch into same stitch. This creates the optional Button Hole.

Attach Button in your favourite jabot button attaching method.


Thoughts on Blocking
There are many methods for blocking circular lace but here is mine. Using rust proof t-pins and starting at centre, assign one pin to each petal and adjust til circle centre is stretched and round. slowly move and replace pins outwards adding more as necessary. Once several inches are stretched out and pinned the previous rows of pins may be removed. Start paying attention to the diameter, adjusting if necessary. Once you reach the crochet Edging pin out *every* ch 7 loop (aiming pin at 3rd ch). This takes a lot of pins but is law.





Wilton Ontario Alpaca: www.wiltonroad.com

*test*
Flyt de 2 sidst strikkede m over på venstre p og hækl:
can't post drafts?