Calgary Knitting 1939 pt 3

UNFORTUNATELY the difficulties of the conveners do not end with teaching women how to knit socks and sweaters so that they will not only be wearable but comfortable as well. There has been and still is a shortage of wool. Since early in September it has become increasingly difficult to obtain enough wool to keep the knitters supplied. Shortly after organization began 1,000 pounds of wool were ordered from a large wholesale house. More than a month later the wool was still unavailable and 25 pounds were offered as a substitute for the 1.000. All the wool on hand was being held to make underwear and uniforms. Within two months the Red Cross has issued nearly a ton of wool.

Since the groups are made up largely of women who have homes and families to care for, weekly meetings are not always possible. Some groups meet only every two weeks, with the hope that they will be able to manage a weekly meeting after the Christmas season is past. At the various depots, however, someone must be on duty all day and every day. It is to these depots that the knitters come when they get into difficulties over the turning of a heel or finishing off of a toe. And at these depots there is always someone who can show them the best and easiest way. These volunteers work in relays. Each staff of four or five has its one day a week to spend where its services are available to women who want wool, staples or instruction.

Everything that the Red Cross makes or is given is turned over to the government for distribution. It does not and never has sold anything. The Red Cross aims to give the soldiers the little extras that make camp life more healthful and more comfortable. "They are supplied by the government with the crude essentials," declared one member. "But the work done by the Red Cross is absolutely necessary. I had enough experience during the last war to know what I am talking about."

By Elnora Bailey,

The Calgary Herald, November 25, 1939

Calgary Knitting 1939 pt 2

EIGHT THOUSAND WOMEN KNITTERS, SOME MEN TOO,

WORKING UNDER REDCROSS IN CALGARY;

KHAKI SOCKS TABOO THIS TIME

Probably the most outstanding of the non-organized knitters are the two men who turn in their share of socks and sweaters each week. One of these is a Great War veteran who not only learned to knit during the last war, but who has knitted his own socks ever since. He has also taught his whole family the useful art. The other is unable to walk without crutches. He learned to knit as a means of passing time, and is calling for wool regularly now. He turns in a pair of socks every week.

Although men who knit seem to be a novelty in Canada it is largely because a number of them are concealing their talent. Knitting was taught in all the hospitals during the last war. In the United States there are numerous "Leisure Hour Knitting Clubs" for men only. Probably once knitting gains [sic] popularity and ceases [sic] to be considered merely a pastime for the gossips, more men will acquire the courage to enter the feminine atmosphere of the new Red Cross Depot in the Hudson Bay Building to ask for wool and instructions.

Whether the socks are knitted by group members, busy housewives or by men, if the wool is supplied by the Red Cross they must be knitted to a certain pattern. They are knitted on number 11 needles so that if they must be washed in cold water they will not shrink into hard lumps as so many did during the last war. They are all supposed to be knitted one size; 11 inches of leg and 11 inches of foot. Many knitters have protested that since the soldiers are so many different sizes, their socks should be too. From experience the directors have learned that no two women knit alike and that no two pair of socks will be the same size. Although the sock demanded is 11 by 11 every imaginable size may be found among those turned in.

Among the 150 pairs of socks you will see almost any color except khaki. Khaki socks are taboo because it was discovered, during the last world war, that the green in the dye was harmful to the soldiers' feet when it was impossible to remove and wash the socks frequently. This time the soldiers will go to the front in heather grey, white or brown socks, but not in khaki ones.

This time too the work turned in to the Red Cross is practically perfect. Each knitter or sewer mush make her article exactly like the sample provided. There is no guess work or inaccuracy. Although anything in the way of a donation is gladly accepted and use in some phase of the work done by the Canadian Red Cross organization, all material that is issued must be made up according to specifications.

Taken from  Elnora Bailey's article in The Calgary Herald, November 25, 1939

Calgary Knitting 1939 pt 1

EIGHT THOUSAND WOMEN KNITTERS, SOME MEN TOO,

WORKING UNDER REDCROSS IN CALGARY;

KHAKI SOCKS TABOO THIS TIME

Three hundred and fifty pairs of mitts; 300 pullovers and sweaters; 150 pairs of socks; incredible numbers of towels, binders, slings, pneumonia jackets, hospital gowns, pajamas, dressing gowns, pillow slips, mattress pads, personal property bags and countless other articles designed to make the soldiers' life more comfortable.

These represent only part of the work that has been accomplished under the capable direction of Mrs. T. J. S. Skinner, president of the Calgary branch of the Red Cross, since war was declared. Most of it was done by the 8,000 women who have organized throughout the city into groups whose purpose is to knit, sew or do anything they can to help their country in its time of need. There are 113 of these groups, ranging in size from 30 members to that of the Scarboro United church group, which boasts a record membership of 200.

These groups draw their members from every walk of life and from every creed. Bridge and community clubs, whose sole aim previously was a good time, have turned themselves into war units and their aims is to do their utmost to strengthen the morale of their country. Home and School Associations, Church Guilds, the Russian-Canadian Club, the Council of Jewish Women, overseas nurses, wives of railway engineers, chapters and lodges of all kinds have turned to knitting needles and sewing machines as instruments with which they can do their bit.

However, it is not from among the housewives only that the 8,000 draw its numbers. Several sororities have offered their services and the girls of the James Short Junior high school are busily knitting mitts. The beauty parlor group members knit between appointments and there is also a group for the deaf mute and one for the blind.

Each club has its own conveners for knitting and sewing. Although most of the sewing is done during group meetings, all the knitting is done by the members in their own homes. All the conveners report that the members of their groups are very anxious to knit and sew. Women from homes where the income is too small to allow monetary donations feel that they are showing their desire to help by making the supplied materials into garments. Socks are created in the intervals between baking, sweeping, washing dishes and ironing clothes as the busy homemaker strives to maintain peace and good cheer in her own home. Probably if each knitted garment could tell its own story the soldiers would need no other form of entertainment.

Besides the members of clubs there are hundreds of women who work individually. Most of them call at headquarters for wool and bring back the finished product. They do as much as they can with the time at their disposal and are never urged to do more than they wish or to hurry with their work.

One of these has a system all her own. Mrs. Skinner passes her home each day on her way to and from the office. When the little lady needs more wool she telephones to say so. Mrs. Skinner collects an average of a sweater a week from this home and leaves enough wool for anther each time she calls.

One lady who was particularly anxious to do her bit but whose household duties were too heavy to leave time for knitting had her quota of wool knitted into socks by a machine. She paid for this service at the rate of $1.05 a week. When she brought the socks in she learned that they were supposed to be knit by hand since hand-knit socks are much easier to walk in. She explained her difficulty and the convener suggested that instead of taking wool when she had no time to knit, she could make a donation to the Red Cross each week if she wished. Her donation would be every bit as welcome in whatever form it was made.

Taken from  Elnora Bailey's article in The Calgary Herald, November 25, 1939

- "Probably if each knitted garment could tell its own story the soldiers would need no other form of entertainment."
Hilarious!
Stay tuned for Part Two.

Miss Britain's Wartime Wardrobe

COUPONS BUY WARDROBES
British Women Have Problems
By THE UNITED PRESS
LONDON, Sept. 16-
-An average British woman's war-time wardrobe presents her with just about every problem except finding closet space for it or choosing what to wear, a recent Board of Trade survey revealed.
  After more than four years of clothes rationing in England and despite all the ingenious "make do and mend" methods of the 4000 women interviewed, the average has a choice of four dresses, one of which was bought within the last year.  She spent the balance of her precious coupons on five pairs of stockings, a pair of shoes, two pairs of gloves, one set of underclothes, four ounces of knitting wool, and two yards of material.
  With an eye on needs to come, average Miss Britain saved back coupons for future purchases in the equivalent of half a pair of shoes, half an overcoat, a fifth of a nightgown, and a third of a petticoat.
  The average British girl's entire wardrobe adds up to one suit, four dresses, three coats, an odd skirt, three pairs of stockings, three sets of "undies", three nightgowns, two petticoats, one brassiere, a corset, four blouses, and three pairs of shoes.
-The Pittsburgh Press, September 16, 1944

Canadian Women's Roll in War 1939 - 1940

Women's Role In War Remains Feminine One Here

BY MURIEL ADAMS

(Canadian Press Staff Writer)

Toronto, Jan. 25

These are full days for the typical Canadian woman. If she isn't knitting pullovers or sewing pneumonia jackets for the Red Cross Society, she is filling a "ditty" bag for sailors, giving alternate Sunday evenings to entertain the air force at suppers or doing special war duties assigned by her own club.

Since 1914 women have won greater freedom---the right to vote, the opportunity to take their place beside men in all professions -but so far in Canada their field of war duty is purely a feminine one-knitting, dewing or nursing.

When war broke out 25 years ago there were a few national women's organizations such as the National Council of Women, the Imperial Order of the Daughters of the Empire, and the Victorian Order of Nurses, where women were taking an active part in public problems. Their total membership was less than one-third what it is today.

Women's war efforts were more unified when war began in September. A national drive for registration of women's qualifications for service in national emergencies was already under way. Then machinery started to collect all available offers from coast to coast. These revealed thousands of workers with experience in munition and textile factories, as translators, canteen workers and nurses, who were anxious to give their services.

Ready for War

Remembering the distress caused by the influenza epidemic that followed the first Great War, women all over the country enrolled in home nursing and first aid courses, prepared to go over-seas or work in their own communities.

First major war effort was the sending of tons of clothing and blankets to evacuated children in England. Canadian women over-seas banded together under the direction of Mrs. Vincent Massey, wife of the Canadian high commissioner, and organized the distribution of these supplies and attended to Canadian war work developing on their side of the ocean.

New Red Cross Branches, I.O.D.E. chapters and St. John Ambulance units sprung up in every province. Troop canteens and recreation rooms were opened in most of the large cities and military districts by women's organizations. Sewing groups met in churches, homes, schools and downtown offices to work in their spare time for the men in uniform.

-The Calgary Herald, Thursday January 25, 1940

WWI Red Cross Sleeveless Sweater

RED CROSS TELLS HOW TO KNIT FOR SOLDIERS

WASHINGTON, September 22- [1917]

Here's how to knit a sleeveless sweater for a soldier, according to official Red Cross instructions:

Get two and a half hanks of yarn.
Also one pair of Red Cross needles No. 3.

Cast on 80 stitches.
Knit 2, purl 2 stitches for 4 inches.
Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose.
Knit 28 stitches.
Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches.
Knit plain for 21 inches.
Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches.
Sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes.

Now if you are still interested in going further with the war knitting brigade, go to your local Red Cross chapter and ask for one of the official knitting circulars.

Five hundred thousand of these circulars have been sent to local chapters everywhere by the Red Cross.

Each contains full information on how to knit the wight standardized articles: Sleeveless sweaters, mufflers, helmets, socks, wristlets, wash cloths, bed socks and bottle covers.

Recent cables from Major Murphy, Red Cross commissioner with the American boys in France, emphasized the need for the warm knitted articles for the soldiers who face the hardships of winter in the trenches.

Army officers request that these articles be forwarded to France as soon as possible. The severity of winter on the battlefields and a rising tuberculosis rate to combat the demand, they warn, that several million of these articles reach France before Thanksgiving.

Socks, [unreadable word] knitters are warned that knots ridges or lumps must be avoided, as they blister the feet.

-Berkeley Daily Gazette, September 22, 1917

Note: I have altered the original typesetting for readability.

A Little Modern Help From Morgan:

There was no illustration or schematic in this newspaper article, but basically this is a sweater knitted flat, in one piece. Today, North Americans would call it a vest.

"Get two hanks of yarn" is kind of hilarious, but remember that the Red Cross had depots in most cities providing official yarn to be used with their official patterns.
If you were to chose a modern Double Knitting or Worsted Weight yarn, these are the sizes you could achieve.
At 5 stitches to the inch the sweater would measure 32" at the chest.
At 4.5 stitches to the inch the sweater would measure 35" at the chest.
At 4 stitches to the inch the sweater would measure 40" at the chest.

There is a reason why the Red Cross did not provide gauge or desired sizes.
They had discovered, in wars passed, that there was no point!
They found that one set of instructions and materials could provide many different results, and conveniently, a bevy of sizes!

The sweater is knit in garter stitch with a ribbed waist. It is knit from the front (or back, I suppose) upwards, to a neck created by casting off the centre 24 stitches.
Two shoulders will be worked either side of this cast off, so new yarn will have to be attached to work the first shoulder (the shoulder located at the beginning of the neck cast off row).
Work one shoulder, and once the 7 ridges are knit ('ridges' refers to the effect created by 2 rows of plain knit in garter stitch) you will place those 28 stitches on waste yarn or a holder.
The casting on of 24 stitches replaces the centre 24 stitches cast off, connects the two shoulders, and creates the neck of the sweater.

The remainder of the pattern echos the beginning of the pattern, as you work the 2nd side from the neck down to the waist, ending the project with the second half of the waist ribbing.
I would suggest using a mattress stitch to sew the sides of the sweater together seamlessly, remembering to end the stitching at the desired underarm location (9" from the shoulder if you are sending this to the 1917 Red Cross!)

Let me know how it goes!

The American War Board Puts Their Foot In It,1942

Loud Protest Follows Sock Knitting Ban

WASHINGTON-

The new war board last night proved its reputation for bold, fearless action by making a definite pass at the millions of knitting needles clicking off sweaters and socks for soldiers.

Claiming that the wool can be better used elsewhere, the board bluntly stated that the products knitted by the millions of well-meaning mothers, wives and sweethearts usually wound up as gun-cleaning or shoe-shining rags. Wool being on a class with rubies and twice as valuable to the war effort, the board took steps to call a definite halt to voluntary amateur knitting.

HANDS OFF CRY

Fighting for women's right to knit while the men shoot, the women's section of civilian defence, headed by Mrs. Eleanor Roosevelt, came back with a violent hands off action. For the sake of civilian morale as well as that of the soldiers, OCS said knitting must continue for the duration. Take the needles out of the ladies' hands and the co-operative spirit and high morale on the home front will collapse, the defenders of the hearth maintained. While their husbands, brothers, sweethearts and sons are far away fighting for world peace, the girls must click or be doomed to discontent.

The war board's answer to this barrage of counter-fire is now in the hands of the Red Cross. In a concise, unmistakable order, the board asked the Red Cross to discourage knitting except by specific order from military commanders. The War and Navy departments refused to reveal whether or not the commanders have any plans to place orders for hand-knitted cozies.

TRADED 'EM FOR WINE

During World 1, according to the war board boys, the AEF had several uses for the things knitted by loving hands at home. One of the most popular ways of getting some wear and tear out of the amateur woolies was made to trade them to French barmaids and housewives for wine. The soldiers got their cup-that-cheers and the French women unravelled the sweaters, reknit them. Everyone was happy, including the little woman at home.

But in World War II, the board explains, the wool shortage is not going to be made shorter by dainty fingers dabbling with the previous skeins. Sweater-knitting, they insist, will be strictly on official order, and the sewing circles will have to think up something else to do with their hands.

All this and the stern order now in making, will mark a mile-post in America's war history. American women have always knitted ferociously while their menfolk fought at the front. The knee-warmers, mittens, mufflers, sweaters and other plain and fancy purling products have always been carefully patted down into boxes and sent off to the men in the trenches with enormous satisfaction.

Knitting has provided women with an excuse to gather and gossip. To feel useful and brave, to mark them as courageous ladies who have courageous men at the front.

The home knitting industry speeds up to a pace envied by many a munition industry during war-time. Debutantes and ribbon clerks take it up with a vengeance. Knitting is hauled out at the theater, in night clubs, at meal times and in doctors' offices. The office of civilian defence stoutly maintains that the sore feet, discomfort and hangovers resulting from amateur knitted goods is outbalanced by the spiritual and morale uplift gained in knitting.

-St. Petersburg Times, Jan 25, 1942

This article astounded me so many times that I had to rest between paragraphs. I still don't quite know what to say. You really must read this article.

Canadian Trends in Wartime Knitting

WAR DIFFERENT IN KNITTING, TOO;

NOT EVEN STYLES REMAIN STATIC

[Lux Knitting Annual 1942. 

Photo courtesy of your friend, the internet.]

In knitting too, it's a very different war. The last one was mostly a matter of socks but in this one, not even styles stay static nor are garments standardized.

Looking over the new 1942 edition of a knitting annual which is a Canadian best-seller in the field, the Lux Knitting Book, a veteran knitter whose needles have served in both emergencies, pointed out how amazing the contrast is. Methods have altered little but almost everything else has.

She leafed through the book which came off the press only this week, to show what a story the knitting changes tell. Here, for instance, are instructions for knitting sweaters for "women in the services," which would have been somewhat startling even a gear ago. There are garments for evacuees, bomb victims and shelter wear.

Knitting needs for the fighting services tend to be as specialized and varied as the services themselves. That's the trend at least. There's an air force sleeveless turtleneck, for example, and a boatneck pullover for the navy. Full instructions are given for more than a score of service items including a series of knitted accessories which are in constant demand but often overlooked.

For that matter, the contrasts are by no means restricted to active service circles. With the sweater doing so well in fashion's popularity polls, these new up-to-the-minute patterns must be given a share of the credit. And there are suggestions too for smart but practical, easily made gifts. The knitting stylists have done a job this season for the whole family.


-The Montreal Gazette, Nov.8. 1941

Click here, to see an interesting excerpt from this book which I posted last year.

Early WWII Patterns from the Glasgow Herald

KNITTING FOR HOSPITALS

WITH APPROVED INSTRUCTIONS

The universal occupation of women in war-time is knitting, and already almost instinctively many women have felt that they wanted to be doing something by way of preperatation of those warmth-giving articles which may mean so much to the comfort of the wounded.

Here then are two patterns, as approved by the British Red Cross Society. Eventually when completed, and some supplies accumulated, they can be sent to any Women's Voluntary Services office, or to any other official address which may appear from time to time in the press appealing for hospital supplies.

Heel-less Bed Sock

Measurement when finished, 22 inches.

Materials required: 5oz, of white 4-ply wool and 4 No.8 bone or vulcanite needles.

Cast on 60 stitches (that is 20 on each of three needles). Knit one round plain.

Then knit 2 purl 2 until a length of 10 inches is worked, then knit all plain for another 10 inches.

Knit one round plain, next round decrease 1 stitch about the centre of each of two needles, and one the beginning and end of third needles; knit next round plain.

Then knit 6, take 2 together; repeat to end of tound.

Knit 6 rounds plain.

Knit 5, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 5 rounds plain.

Knit 4, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 4 rounds plain.

Knit 3, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 3 rounds plain.

Knit 2, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 2 rounds plain.

Knit 1, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 1 round plain.

Next round: Knit every 2 together, then knit 2, slip the first knitted one over the second, continue until last stitch, through which draw the wool, leaving a length of 4 or 5 inches to be neatly fastened off with darning needle.

Heel-less Operation Stocking

Measurement of stocking when finished, 36 inches in length.

Materials required for a pair, 8oz. of white 4-ply vest wool; 4 No. 8 bone needles.

Cast on 68 stitches and knit on two needles, one row plain, and then rib-purl 2, knit 2-for four inches. Put the work on to three needles-24 stitches on two and 20 stitches on the third needle, and knit round and round still in the rib until work measures 34 inches.

Then knit one round plain, next round decrease one stitch about the centre of each of two needles, and the beginning and end of the third needle. Knit the next round plain.

Then:-

Then knit 6, take 2 together; repeat to end of tound.

Knit 6 rounds plain.

Knit 5, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 5 rounds plain.

Knit 4, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 4 rounds plain.

Knit 3, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 3 rounds plain.

Knit 2, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 2 rounds plain.

Knit 1, take 2 together; repeat to end of round.

Knit 1 round plain.

Next round: Knit every 2 together, then knit 2, slip the first knitted one over the second, continue until last stitch, through which draw the wool, leaving a length of 4 or 5 inches to be neatly fastened off with darning needle.

-The Glasgow Herald September 19. 1939

Puffed Sleeves In The 1940s

Truly, fashion at the beginning of 1940 and at the end of 1949 should not be lumped together.  The attitudes and influences in the years immediately following the Second World War make for a very specific period of 20th century fashion, as does the introduction of Dior's new look.  For knitters though, a lumping together of years might be more forgivable.  After all, we are dealing less with high fashion, or even commercial fashion; just its trickle-down influence.  Also, because home knitters have to source their own materials, the continuation of rationing post war, and material shortages for the years to come affected home knitting fashion directly.

I'm Canadian, so most of the vintage patterns I find are British, Canadian, or British patterns reformated for Canadian import. This means that the terms I use for vintage patterns are usually British (ie yarn weights, needle sizes) and that all of my patterns from the 1940s are influenced by the Second World War and by the rationing that followed.

At no other time in modern history was knitting so newsworthy!

The War Knitting Marathon at the 1940 New York World's Fair

Several initiatives were already in place when war was declared and the British and Canadian Governments created and regulated many wooly efforts. These have been well documented, especially in the last few years. Try these posts to learn more about war time knitting. Of course these knitting initiatives served those knitting for the troops and wounded overseas, but also served the garment needs of the homefront. 'Make Do And Mend' is only one part of the 1940s knitting story. It is also only one influence on the creative home knitter of this period. Perhaps another post is needed. If and when I write it, it will be slotted in with a link here.

The conditions of WWII knitting made a pleated puff sleeve possible and popular.

Where the pads of the 1930s had extended the shoulder line slightly into the cap or puff of the sleeve, supporting the height of the puff, the puff sleeve of the early 1940s was often constructed and fitted flat at the top of the cap and, because of it's rigidity, and the shape and firmness of the shoulder pad, sat level with the shoulder, puffing every direction but up.

A 1940s puff; the flat, pleated top of the sleeve extends the shoulder line.  

A pad (visible on the left shoulder) helps to push the puff out.  

The firm lace and long cuff exaggerates the fullness at the shoulder.

Moving forwards, the puff sleeve of the later war years was much more extreme.  The WWII shoulder attempted to do two things:  appear soft and feminine (round puff), and to echo the uniforms and wartime spirit of the time (squared shoulders).  These two looks (which sometimes appear together in some of the more fantastic wartime sweater patterns) are controlled by three factors: the construction of the sleeve, the setting of the sleeve, and the padding of the sleeve.  Day to day, it is the pad that becomes indispensable.  With a mini collection of different kinds of pads, a home knitter could (and can!) change the feel of a jumper depending on the event, mood, or time of day.

Yahoo!

Several factors also contributed to the practical possibility of these kinds of sleeves, and to the flourishing of puff.  Wartime sweaters were often knit with a yoke of a different scrap colour or stitch pattern, in part to save and use up scraps (remember that a British coupon was worth only 2oz of wool), but also because of the striking effect it creates.  A straight, no-nonsense line separates the two areas and sets off the whimsy of a slightly silly sleeve.  It also slims the shoulder no end; very dainty, but still efficient.  This visual effect was easy to achieve without too much experience and it is a great way to instantly evoke a vintage feel today.

 











A more experienced knitter might also knit the puffed section of the sleeve in the yoke colour or pattern, continuing the line of separation across the entire body.  Striking, and neat as a pin.  No one wanted to look frivolous or wasteful so few sweaters from this period were particularly lacy, or knit loosely or drapey, instead lace was close, creating a firmer fabric than typical knitted lace. A firm fabric is easier to fiddle with when it comes to setting the sleeve; a plus for a puff or sculpted sleeve.
Puffed and exaggerated shoulders were unavoidable; the fabric created by the body of wartime sweaters was one just begging to be inflated.

My 'Vantine's' Jumper has a yoke of a firm fabric to help with finishing.  Also note the firmness and pertness of the lace pattern.  It is delicate, but not drapey.

Sweaters needed to be more durable because for many, more time was having to be spent outdoors. This meant that padding and pleating could be added to greater effect. It also meant that the fabric of the sweater was sturdier, especially due to the scarcity of fine yarns. Many sweaters were knit of old, recycled sweaters or scrap yarn meaning that the wool was often stiffer than normal. Recycled yarn also looses it's elasticity and must be knit firmer.  Most sweaters of repurposed wool were knit in textured fabric, perfect for structural sleeves.  Although beautifully shown in 1940s patterns, at home stranded knitting was largely avoided over the top of the sleeve, and Fair Isle patterns were usually placed by novice knitters on the yoke alone.  Most sweaters were of one colour (on the sleeve) and of a textured stitch pattern so that in the finishing, the gathering or "easing in" of excess fabric at the head of the sleeve gave an instant structural look even if no special finishing techniques were used.  Make do and Mend, Red Cross depots, and Air Raids all meant that women were knitting in groups more than ever, and so specialty stitches and techniques could be shared (or not).  More home knitters and new knitters could now attempt puffed sleeves.

Granny, her mates in the WAFs, and their shoulders.

This look was in because of the unavoidable influence of military uniforms on fashion. Of course many women found themselves in uniform, but many women called to war work outside of the forces wanted to emulate this appearance of professionalism and patriotism.

In this way pads became as square as the squared shoulders (figuratively and literally)of the military, and padding raised them adding height in addition to width. With 'Make-Do" foremost in every knitter's mind, many pads were made of scrap fabric and were stuffed with yarn scraps or sawdust if cotton was scarce. These pads were adding height (new since the 1930s) and so were often knit or sewn square, rather like little beanbags.  Click here to read "Using Gauge Swatches as Shoulder Pads in the Vintage Style", part of the Quest for Puff series!

This free pattern from the Victoria & Albert Museum's War Time Collection features a custom knitted shoulder pad. 

The Shiap tried to kill the square look, introducing a sloped shoulder. It did not take off. Operating out of the States, rather than Occupied France, she was fighting the fashion houses' rebellion. The Couturiers showed manish shapes, awkward hems, ugly shoes and misappropriated hats, all destined (they hoped) for the wives of German officers; no one else could afford them. England stayed ignorant of this trend until well after the war; their shoulders would never become as bizarre.

Occupied France's lines had only a slight influence on British styles.

A peasant revival was inspired by land girls, though most land girls themselves could not participate in it.

Girlish puffed sleeves couldn't help but be popular, (a look carried over from the '30s) and stayed inflated and round until around the time the Americans joined the war. After Pearl Harbour the military inspired square shoulder won out for the most part, and puffs tended to be angled until Dior's New Look. This is partly to do with the fact that the fashion colonies were cut off from France. Forced to look elsewhere for mode, foreign designers pulled from the military look, and even the specific uniforms of local heros. It is at this point that the American and British commercial fashions really begin to take on a unique cultural identity.

The Peasant/Folk craze would continue to come and go as it had for centuries.  

For the home knitter it would become a haven of puff.

Dior launched his 'New Look' in 1947.  Of course it changed everything and part of it's success was it's very 'newness'.  It was achieved, however, by reviving some very old techniques.
You might think that the Look's rounded shoulder lines would kill our story and certainly annex the shoulder pad.  Although a square shoulder was instantaneously out of date, Dior's rebirthing of French Tailoring and Couture techniques, many unseen since Victoria,  made padding a staple.  Pads became more shaped, more like the ubiquitous pads of the 1980s.  Sleeve Heads, particularly for jackets were to become, and remain essential.

Pads can be used to give puff shape to a shoulder that was knit to be sloped.  

This look is a bridge between the square and the round shoulder.

Dior's line was universally lauded and in Britain it was seen as a breath of fresh air.  The American and British Governments however, were furious.  They were working very hard to ration a public who was confused about restrictions still in place after the war.  Dior's New Look, with it's ample fabric was very very expensive and hard to come by.  Nowadays, this would be a case for High Street knockoffs.  Britain, however was still rationing many garments and dressmaking materials, and would continue to do so for several years.  Also,  mills and design firms had both been restricted and could only produce a limited line of products.  Knitting was still essential, and now more of the home knitter's time could be spent on personal projects, rather than knitting for the troops.  The Red Cross in Canada and the US continued to collect for various worthy causes, but here too we see more involved patterns for the knitter herself.

Knitters continued to employ tricks like this one to conserve rationed wool; the contrast colour is embroidered over the body of the sweater, extending it's effect.  Perhaps the wool for the embroidery was salvaged from the pocket of another sweater.  The firm fabric of the sleeve (since the colour wasn't stranded) is perfect for pleating into a puff.

In February of 1949, wool clothing ceased to be rationed.  This meant that if the consumer could afford it, some items could be bought and no longer needed to be knitted.  Unfortunately, this didn't quite produce a renaissance of personal knitting as it had after WWI; knitting wool would remain rationed until 1952.

When it becomes readily available again, yarn will be a very different product and knitting will have to adapt.

Bring on the 1950s '60s and '70s.

You are reading "The Quest For Puff" ©Morgan Forrester

Up next:

Mid Century Peasant Puff

Coming Soon:

Vintage Sleeves: Puff Pleating

Vintage Sleeves: Seaming for Puff

Creating Puffed Sleeves Anew

This post is a part of The Quest For Puff Series. Read it from the beginning HERE.
PS  Sorry, I don't know what's up with the spacing.

War Knitting Marathon

DOWN THE STRETCH IN WAR KNITTING MARATHON

Here they come down the stretch in the war knitting marathon at the Australian Pavillion at the New York World's Fair, June 18. The winner was Finland by a stitch; Belgium was second. With Fanny Hurst, noted author; Mrs. Harrison Williams, one of the ten best-dressed women, and Lynne Fontanne, stage star (left to right) acting as the judges, Mrs. Siami Rappell (seated right), of the Finnish relief committee, beats Mrs. Rene Burchard, of the Belgium relief committee. The marathon lasted for two days.

-Windsor Daily Star, June 21, 1940

PS I think Mona von Bismark (Williams at the time) is stunning in this photo. It's amazing to see how beautiful she was in real life, in a candid shot. What must her own knitting have been like?  The Curse of the Boyfriend Sweater might have a lot to answer for!

My New Favourite Rockefeller

J.D. ROCKEFELLER, JR., KNITS

Industriously Works on a Shawl for War Sufferers.

Special to The New York Times.

HOT SPRINGS, Va., Nov. 12. -John D. Rockefeller, Jr., is knitting a shawl of heavy wool. Knitting is a new accomplishment for Mr. Rockefeller. He had never tried it until las night, when he was sitting in the lobby of the Homestead Hotel with his wife, W. H. Cheesebrough, Mrs. Richard Perkins, and Mrs. N. W. Chadwick, the women knitting, as most of them here are constantly doing. Somebody suggested that inasmuch as the Rockefeller Foundation is giving large sums for relief of the war suffers, the men might as well help with the work. Needles and yarn were produced and Mr. Chesebrough made a feeble attempt. Mr. Rockefeller, however, went at the work with spirit, soon got the hang of it, and persevered for two hours. Tonight he was continuing and had about a yard done.

-The New York Times, November 13, 1914

When Knitting Groups Go Bad

DON'T JUST SAY IT!

Idle Gossip on War is Dangerous!

Women can do a lot of talking while they're knitting -and if they don't watch themselves they can do as much damage by their talk as they do good by the warm clothes they knit for the Red Cross.

If the click of their knitting needles is accompanied by thoughtless war talk they aren't nearly as patriotic as they like to believe they are.

No woman can knit enough sweaters to make up for spreading vague and frightening war rumors. Of for circulating stories about people in her community who have always been good citizens, but who happen to have been born in a country with which we are now at war.

Nor can she roll enough bandages to make up for the damage she does by making derogatory remarks about our army or repeating groundless gossip about the men who are running our government.

And she can't devote enough hours to war work to balance the harm she does by kicking about taxes, complaining over the high cost of living, and grumbling over having to give up a few luxuries.

Don't Wall Over Sacrifices

Nor is there any way in which she can make up for her bad effect on morale when she acts as though when she gives up "things" she is making a terrific sacrifice. Any woman who has a man in one of the armed forces is bound to resent such an attitude.

Knitting is a great inducement to talking -so while they knit women should keep their minds on their talking as well as their knitting to see that there is no harm in anything they say.

We, The Women, by Ruth Millett

-The Evening Independent February 9,1942

The Story of George E. Hill

KNITTING ACTIVITIES COVER THREE WARS

Aged Ohio Man Has Made Many Socks and Sweaters for Soldiers.

"Knitting is easier today than it was when I was a boy, and I guess I've improved some in my work, too." is the modest way in which George E. Gill of Dayton, I., comments on his knitting record, which embraces three wars. During the European war, after American intervention, the Dayton chapter of the American Red Cross delivered yarn to him in volume of 20 hanks at a time. Those who knit will appreciate what this means-what a tremendous task confronts the knitter. Undaunted, Mr. Hill "carried on." When he reached his hundredth pair he knitted appropriate designs into the socks and sent them to the president of the United States, who is also president of the American Red Cross. General Pershing, he says, will get the two hundredth pair, properly decorated.

When a boy Mr. Hill knitted for the soldiers of the Civil war. During the Spanish-American war he knitted garments for Red Cross distribution. Long before America declared war against Germany he resumed his knitting activities on behalf of the allies, redoubling his efforts when the youth of our land was called into service. He is indefatigable in his work. In November when the Dayton chapter of the American Red Cross was asked to furnish 500 sweaters for nurses, Mr. Hill completed two in six days, remarking when he delivered them: "I can finish two of them in five days if I'm not interrupted too much."

Although his hair is white with the snows of many years, Mr. Hill's heart is delightfully youthful. He works at his regular employment in the commercial world from seven to five o'clock every week day, and does his knitting in his leisure hours, often arising at three o'clock in the morning to knit a sock before breakfast, as it were. He has made a specialty of knitting two socks simultaneously with one pair of knitting needles.

Ellensburg Daily Record, December 20, 1918